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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Google Waze
Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5+
Drábský masív
Along the edge to the ring, left and directly to the slanting crack and below it to the…
6+/7-
Drábský masív
Up the wall along the edge over three rings to the summit.
6-
Drábský masív
Along the oblique crack right to the edge, along it to the 1st and 2nd rings, right and…
7/7+
Drábský masív
Up the wall over the ring to the mouth of the Lomenice crack and up it to the summit.
6-
Drábský masív
Along the edge to the ring and slightly right to the terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Drábský masív
From the terrace, up the wall into the gully, through the hole and up the crack to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Drábský masív
Along the edge left of the entrance hut over the ring.
6-
Černá jehla
Traverse under the overhang left to the balcony to the 1st ring. Slightly right up the…
7+/8-
Černá jehla
From the start of the Valley Route variant, left and up the wall over 2 rings to the 2nd…
4+
Černá jehla
Up the crack and chimney below the summit. Traverse left in the chimney, then step over…
6-
Černá jehla
To the 1st ring via an oblique crack from the valley.
4-
Černá jehla
Up the chimney to the balcony in the SW wall to the ring, through the gully and directly…
5+
Trubková jehla
Along the left valley edge into the gully and thus to the platform below the summit.…
8+/9-
Balustráda
Along the right upper edge via 5b to the summit.
6-
Balustráda
In the edge and by crack to the ring. Up, right into the hole, from the left over the…
7/7+
Balustráda
Corner to the end to the 1st ring. Over the overhang, by notch into the big hole and…
7-/7
Balustráda
To the left of Orgasm from the ledge over the overhang to K and up the wall to the 1st K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Balustráda
Along the NW route's crack to the nose and left (hourglass) behind the edge to the 1st…
5+
Balustráda
Along the crack to the end, right to another crack and along it (ring) to the summit of…
5+
Svatá Anežka
Up the edge and crack (two rings) to the summit.
6
Svatá Anežka
Through the center of the wall (ring) to the summit.
?
Svatá Anežka
Up the east wall over two rings to the summit.
6
Svatá Anežka
Along the edge over three rings to the summit.
2
Svatá Anežka
Up the small upper wall to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2+
Svatá Anežka
Over the blocks to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
El miska
Via Quakers to the children on the ledge, then right through the gully (ring) and along…
4-
El miska
Short edge over the hourglass and ring to the fore-summit.
6-
Zpěvačka
Along the left or right crack over the bulges diagonally left to the balcony, traverse…
6
Zpěvačka
Up 3 m through the crack, traverse right to the center of the wall and up to the ring. Up…
6-
Pamětní věž
From the tower gap, traverse to the NE edge, and over it via 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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