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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
7/7+
Hláska (Clamorna)
Middle of the valley wall to the 1st ring, via chimney or traverse right to the small…
6
Hláska (Clamorna)
Along the crack to the 1st and 2nd ring. Slightly right and up the wall left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Hláska (Clamorna)
From the 3rd ring continuously through the corner (loops) to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Hláska (Clamorna)
From the 3rd ring briefly up, left past the small edge and up the wall over the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Hláska (Clamorna)
From the traverse of the Orion route further left and up to the 1st ring. Directly over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Hláska (Clamorna)
Along the right valley edge up the wall to a ledge, along the edge (1st ring) to another… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
9/9+
Hláska (Clamorna)
From the S side, right of the edge, up the wall to the 1st and 2nd ring. Further to the…
6+/7-
Hláska (Clamorna)
From the gully traverse left to the SE edge and a long traverse up the S wall to the SW…
7/7+
Hláska (Clamorna)
From the gully traverse left behind the SE edge, descend to the loop and directly up to…
7/7+
Hláska (Clamorna)
From the gully traverse left to the edge and along it over two rings to the summit.
5
Hláska (Clamorna)
Standard route to the crack, traverse behind the edge and diagonally right up the NW wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Hláska (Clamorna)
Traverse right along the ledges to the crack. Via the crack over the ring to the summit.
8
Drábský sloup
From the gorge diagonally left under the break-out, through the crack over the ring into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Drábský sloup
Up the wall over four rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Drábský sloup
Along the right valley edge to the 1st ring, up and diagonally left into the hole (2nd…
6
Drábský sloup
Along the edge to the ring, along the edge and left to the summit.
8/8+
Drábský sloup
From the first ring of the Ozone Hole route, up and right to the edge. Along the edge…
6-
Drábský sloup
By overhang onto the S edge, traverse left to the edge, diagonally left into the corner…
5
Drábský sloup
From the terrace, step into the SW wall and right to the edge and along it (ring).
6
Drábský sloup
Up the wall through the hole to the ring, directly into another hole and straight up the…
7-/7
Drábský sloup
From the chimney via a small chimney to the first ring, right into the hole, up to the…
5+
Drábský masív
Along the crack to the ring, traverse left into another crack and up it to the summit.
4+
Drábský masív
From the fore-rock, by overhang and positioning into the wall, through the crack along… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Drábský masív
Along the edge (ring).
6
Drábský masív
Along the left edge of the NE wall up under the overhang, traverse right (hour-glass) and…
6
Drábský masív
Up the wall through the hole to the ring. (By building) or up the wall from the right to…
6
Drábský masív
Along the wall (ring) to the Ecce Homo ring and slightly left to the crack.
5+
Drábský masív
Along the edge to the ledge, left along it and up the wall to the ring. Right behind the…
7+/8-
Drábský masív
Along the edge over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Drábský masív
Through the center of the wall directly to the ring. Diagonally left into the hole, 2 m…

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