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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Google Waze
Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5
Doubravská věž
From the edge along the ledge into the corner and from there to the ring. Diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Doubravská věž
*** WARNING ***In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of questionable quality… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Doubravská věž
Stand on the edge and left over the overhang to the ring. Up the wall and crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Janebova věž
Up the plateau wall over two rings to the summit.
6
Janebova věž
From the chimney to the right valley edge, along it to the 1st and 2nd rings, traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Janebova věž
Up the chimney for 2m, traverse right to the edge and along it to the 1st ring. (By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Janebova věž
Up the wall (1st ring) and along 'sokolíky' (hourglass) to a ledge. From the right around… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Machkova věž
From the edge, traverse in holes to a small crack and up the wall to the ring. Right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Machkova věž
From the fore-peak down to a ledge, right to a crack and through it (ring). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Machkova věž
From the fore-peak to the right behind the edge and along it over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Trojitá věž
Straight up the wall over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Trojitá věž
Traverse right under the 1st ring and directly to it. Directly over the 2nd ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Trojitá věž
Step across from the block into the wall (ring), traverse right to the crack and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Spící mnich
*** ATTENTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of dubious quality or… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Olšinská věžička
Up the wall to the right of the Čundrácký (Wanderer's) route directly over 1 ring bolt to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Studený průchod
Via cracks (ring bolt).
5+
Studený průchod
Along the right small wall of the passage over a ledge (sling) to a ring bolt and from…
6-
Studený průchod
Overhang directly to the 1st ring. Traverse left to the 2nd ring and through the chimney…
5+
Studený průchod
Through the chimney and further right to the 1st ring. Through a narrow crack to the 2nd…
5
Pig
Edge (ring). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Pig
Up the wall to the 1st ring and by crack (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Šutr
Over the overhang to the ring and by small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Šutr
Through the gully to the massive hourglass and to the ring. Directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Kvido
From the wall to the left to the edge and over it via two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Zpěvačka
Through the crack over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Balustráda
*** ATTENTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of questionable… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Balustráda
*** ATTENTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of questionable… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Balustráda
*** ATTENTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of questionable… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Balustráda
From the S edge, traverse in ledges left to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Balustráda
Wall to the crack, along it to the end, right and directly to the ring. Left to the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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