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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Google Waze
Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
8/8+
Třetí věž
In the left part of the overhanging valley face, traverse left via 3 rings to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Třetí věž
Along the right valley edge via 'hodiny' (hourglass) to the 1st ring. Up the face and…
6
Třetí věž
In the left part of the SE face directly or from the right via a crack into a wider crack…
9/9+
Třetí věž
Through the center of the overhanging valley face slightly to the right (6 rings) to the…
6-
Třetí věž
Through the plateau wall (2 rings) to the summit. At the top right.
4+
Třetí věž
Along the edge to the ledge, along it to the right and along the diagonal crack to the…
7/7+
Třetí věž
In the right part of the NW face, via a crack over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Třetí věž
Through the small crack to the 1st and 2nd rings, further onto the grassy ledge and over…
6
Herold
From the gully between Kovář and Herold, up the left part of the wall directly to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Knedlík
On the plateau side from the stairs between Dráb and Knedlík, descend right to the corner… Rock Climbing
6
Knedlík
Via the 'Konvrzek' route to K, left over another K to the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Drábský sloup
From the gorge, diagonally right up the wall to the edge and along it to the ring. Along…
6-
Drábský sloup
Along the Z edge over the Krombholz route ring to the summit.
6+/7-
Drábský masív
Along the slab to the ring, right and over the overhang to the ledge. Straight (2nd ring)…
6+/7-
Drábský masív
Slightly from the right over the crack to the 2nd ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Drábský masív
Left along the edge over the ring to the Nervous Breakdown ring.
6+/7-
Drábský masív
Through the center of the wall directly to the ring. Along the wall to the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Drábský masív
Through the hollow in the corner about 8 m up, right over the edge, up the wall and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Drábský masív
Through the left part of the wall over two rings.
5+
Drábský masív
Directly up the wall to the zigzag crack and up it.
9/9+
Drábský masív
Up the wall (1st and 2nd ring) to the 3rd ring and left through the hole to the edge and…
7-/7
Drábský masív
In the lower part of the gorge between Drábský Pillar and Dráb, up the SE wall directly… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Trubková jehla
Overhanging right valley edge, higher left to the 1st ring, friable wall into the hole …
2+
Trubková jehla
From the fore-rock up the wall and right along the edge. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Balustráda
From the ledge, by standing up to the ring. Wall into the recess, crack over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Balustráda
By standing into the wall and to the ring. Further standing onto the ledge and by crack…
6-
Balustráda
Along the gully over the overhang to the pulpit and traverse right to the 1st ring. (With…
9/9+
Balustráda
From the ledge two meters left of the start of the NW crack over the overhang and ring…
4+
Svatá Anežka
In the right part of the SW wall, up the diagonal crack over the hourglass to the plateau… Rock Climbing
5+
El miska
To the right of the valley edge up the wall to K. Up and over K of the Drábské Boogie… Rock Climbing

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