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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
5+
Sup
From the upper side, up the wall along the left (W) edge via 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sup
The route leads to the fore-rock between Supa and Doubravská Tower. Stemming between the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Sup
Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
5+
Sup
Along the right edge of the chimney, or through the chimney to the sloping platform and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Ostříž
To the right of the 'Listopadová' (November) route up the wall to the 1st K. Through the… Rock Climbing
6-
Ostříž
Directly to the 1st and 2nd ring. Traverse left into the corner and left around loose… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Dušičková věž
Up the wall along the right valley edge via a ring to the summit.
6-
Dušičková věž
From the block over the overhang to the edge and along it (ring) to the summit.
2+
Dušičková věž
Briefly up the chimney, step across into the wall and diagonally right to the edge. Along… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Dušičková věž
By stemming in the chimney.
4-
Pulec
Along the ledge to the right of the route Ještě vejce and up the face to the summit Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Pulec
Along the slanted crack to the right onto the ledge and to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Pulec
Over the small overhang into the gully and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Pulec
Along the ledge to the right of the route "Ještě vejce" and up the face to the summit Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Pulec
Along the slanted crack to the right onto the ledge and further. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Pulec
Up the overgrown eastern edge to the summit
4-
Pulec
Up the face along the blunt edge to the summit.
6
Kamarádská věž
Directly up the face ('hodiny' - hourglass) to the balcony and diagonally left to the 1st…
8-/8
Kamarádská věž
Approach via the route 'Jirkův sen' (Jirka's Dream) and traverse right to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kamarádská věž
From the 2nd ring of 'Klavírní sonáta' (Piano Sonata) left to the edge and along it to… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kamarádská věž
From the 1st ring of the route 'Jirkův sen' (Jirka's Dream) into a hole and above it… Rock Climbing
6
Kamarádská věž
From the left valley edge diagonally right to the NW edge and diagonally left to the 1st…
5+
Kamarádská věž
Via stemming and the face to the 2nd ring.
7-/7
Kamarádská věž
Through the left part of the plateau face over a ring to a ledge and via a slightly… Rock Climbing
5+
Kamarádská věž
Through an overhanging corner to the 1st ring. Into a hole, left around the edge and…
7+/8-
Kamarádská věž
From the plateau side left behind the edge to a ledge and via a slightly overhanging W… Rock Climbing
3
Dragoun
Up the face diagonally left to the edge and via that to the summit.
4+
Dragoun
Through the center of the plateau face directly to the rappelling ring.
4+
Dragoun
Along the SW edge.
6
Dragoun
From the center of the valley face right to the 1st ring. From the right, higher up from… Rock Climbing

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