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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
6
Tučňák
Along the edge left into a hole, back to the edge and along it to the ring. Up into the…
6
Tučňák
Left up the wall from the "For gentlemen in tails" route, up the overhanging wall to the…
6
Tučňák
Up the East edge to the end of the crack and left (ring) onto the slanting slab. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Tučňák
Up the plateau wall diagonally left to the edge. Along the edge over a ring to the second…
3
Tučňák
Due to rock damage in 1976 (block collapse), the route ceased to exist. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
6
Stařena
Up the V-edge to the summit.
7-/7
Stařena
From the 1st ring of the Gingerbread House route, directly up the wall (hourglasses) into… Rock Climbing
5+
Stařena
Up the dihedral to the slanting ledge, along it to the right and up the center of the…
6
Stařena
Along the N edge to the shelf, right into the valley wall and diagonally right to the 1st…
7+/8-
Stařena
Up the center of the plateau wall over a ring to the summit.
6+/7-
Stařena
Along the edge directly to the 1st ring.
Přeskok
Stařena
From Tučñák (Penguin). Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
6
Stařena
Up the center of the wall over two rings to the 1st ring of the NE wall.
5
Stařena
From the block, step across into the wall, traverse right into the crack and up it to the…
6
Mušle
Up the overhanging wall at the edge (ring) onto the shelf and up the steps to the summit.
4+
Mušle
Normal route (N.c.) to the slanting slab and right to the dihedral (sling). Up the…
6
Mušle
Up the wall to the ring and directly onto the shelf. Up the steps to the summit.
3
Mušle
Below the overhanging step, left onto the shelf in the SW wall. Center of the wall, or S…
5
Mušle
From the plateau side, traverse left up the wall to K and further left by hand-traversing… Rock Climbing
4+
Mušle
Up the SW wall to the left to the hourglasses and directly onto the shelf. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing
6
Mušle
To the left of the Sea Edge, up the center of the valley wall over K directly to the pine… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Mušle
Along the edge or traverse from the right, (ring - additionally placed) onto the shelf…
6+/7-
Bivak
From the edge to the center of the wall and over the overhang to the 1st ring. Slightly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Bivak
On the prominent NW pillar (opposite the Penguin Tower) via an overhanging dihedral over… Rock Climbing
5
Bivak
Over the overhang from Jo­gín to K and up the slanting wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Bivak
To the right of the 'Synergistic Edge' up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Bivak
On the protruding north pillar from the left onto the edge and up to the 1st and 2nd K.… Rock Climbing
6-
Bivak
Through the cracks (hourglass) and along the ledge right into the corner. Up the corner…
6-
Bivak
From the left, over massive hourglasses at the edge, over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4+
Bivak
On the NW pillar to the left of the Psí angína route, up the wall over the K to a short… Rock Climbing

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