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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
6
Puklá věž
Through the chimney, higher up via the crack over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Puklá věž
(Dedicated to Standa Šilhán.) Start via Chrámová klenba (Temple Vault) route and up the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Puklá věž
From the 1st R of Chrámová klenba (Temple Vault) directly and over a large overhang via 2… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Puklá věž
Jump from Jezinka into the wall and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
8-/8
Puklá věž
From the chimney between Puklá Věž and Jezinka, to the right of Chrámová klenba (Temple… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Puklá věž
Up the overhanging wall to the 1st ring, up and right (2nd ring) into the corner and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Puklá věž
Directly (ring) to the ledge to the 2nd ring.
2+
Puklá věž
Through the chimney to the balcony, traverse left and via another chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Puklá věž
From the edge, traverse left into the corner, or directly (VII) via the wall from the…
7-/7
Puklá věž
Below the abseil directly to the 1st ring, from the left and straight up to the 2nd and…
5+
Puklá věž
To the left of the SW edge from the chimney between Puklá Věž and Jezinka, directly up… Rock Climbing
5+
Matterhorn
To the right of the start of Zmutský Nos, up the wall along the small cracks/holds into… Rock Climbing
5+
Matterhorn
Via the smooth edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
4+
Matterhorn
*** ATTENTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, the rings may be of dubious quality or… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
3
Matterhorn
From the sturdy tree via the S edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Bludiště
Along the right part of the wall over five rings.
7+/8-
Bludiště
From the 1st bolt of Kouřimák's edge to Trojitá via a straddle and further along the West… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Bludiště
From the ring, via a narrow crack. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
5+
Bludiště
Through the chimney, overhang and along the edge over 1 ring. From the left over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Bludiště
To the left of Nežerka's crack, up the wall over the bolt into the crack and right along… Rock Climbing
6
Bludiště
From the middle of the wall via a crack, then right to the edge and along it over 3 rings… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Bludiště
Up the wall along the left edge to the ring. From there directly and from the left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Bludiště
Through a crack, higher up a narrow crack to the ring. Up to the ledge, hand-over-hand… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
8+/9-
Morous
Via the Tita Orang route to the 2nd bolt. Diagonally right over the 3rd bolt to the edge,… Rock Climbing
4+
Bludička
In the valley wall, through the crack in the corner to the saddle and via the Normal… Rock Climbing
2+
Bludička
Up the wall via steps to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Bludička
Directly up the wall over 2 rings. Above the 2nd ring right to the edge, directly into…
7+/8-
Morous
Along the left valley edge over the bolt into the crack and higher up right to the 1st… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Morous
Via a flake along the crack to the end, left and later right to the 1st ring. (By…
8-/8
Morous
In the valley part of the NE face from the corner traverse by hand-over-hand right to the… Rock Climbing

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