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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
8/8+
Vánoční
Lunge/dyno to a hold on the overhanging wall, then directly over two ring bolts to a…
6-
Vánoční
Up the narrow wall to a ring bolt and along the smooth edge to the false summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Skalka
Up the W wall along the left edge to a ring bolt and directly over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Skalka
Along the North edge via 3 K to the summit.
6-
Skalka
Up the wall to the left of the edge to the 1st ring bolt, onto the edge (2nd ring bolt)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Skalka
From the balcony between the towers to the platform and via the E edge from the right to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Skalka
Up the wall through a hole to the 1st ring bolt, right onto the edge (2nd ring bolt) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Jezinka
Along the right upland-side (E) edge via K to the ledge and along the "Pravá hrana" … Rock Climbing
4-
Skalka
From the balcony between the towers to the platform and via the E edge from the right to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Jezinka
Via a crack to the ledge, right onto the edge, along it and up the wall to the left. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7/7+
Jezinka
Along the "Pravá hrana" (Right Edge) route to the ledge and up the slabby wall via K to…
7/7+
Jezinka
Via a crack and gendarmes to a ring bolt. To the gendarme and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
Přeskok
Jezinka
From the Cracked Tower. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Jezinka
From the pass/passage to a crack leading to the left, then left along it to the edge and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Jezinka
Along the left valley-side (N) overhanging edge via 3 K to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Jezinka
From the block via a corner and a crack to the right to the 1st ring bolt. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Jezinka
Via a crack in the SW wall to the edge. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
8-/8
Jezinka
Up the wall along the right valley-side (W) edge to the 1st and 2nd K. Up the wall via… Rock Climbing
6
Jezinka
Up the wall to a ring bolt. From the left above the ring bolt and via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Puklá věž
From the lower rock formation, by stepping over onto the edge and along it via a ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Puklá věž
In the left part of the E wall via 3 K directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Jezinka
Via a crack to the ledge, then left along it to a ring bolt. (By stemming) into the gully…
5
Jezinka
Along the edge via a ring bolt of the SE wall. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
10
Puklá věž
From the fore-rock two rings into the hole and right via bh into the Golden Anchor route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
9+
Puklá věž
To the right of the Voko route, it takes the center of the wall via 4 BH and 1 ring bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9+
Puklá věž
Via the left valley (NE) edge over 3 R to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Puklá věž
Up the overhanging edge to the left of Údolní spára (Valley Crack) to the 1st and 2nd R.… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Puklá věž
Through the center of the E wall via BH and 3 K to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Puklá věž
From the 1st ring of Chrámová klenba (Temple Vault) slightly left along the edge over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Puklá věž
(Dedicated to Standa Šilhán.) Start via Chrámová klenba (Temple Vault) route and up the… Rock Climbing

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