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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
6
Podhradí
Through the chimney to its widening, step over to the edge and along it over two rings to…
6+/7-
Podhradí
Between the routes Bořík na Slováči and Opékání prasátek, up the wall and through the… Rock Climbing
6
Podhradí
Through the chimney to the ledge, left to the notch and through it to the 1st and 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Skalní hrad
From the 2nd ring further to the ring of the NE edge and by this route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Skalní hrad
From the 1st ring through the chimney, higher up through the crack over the ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Skalní hrad
Along the NE edge halfway through the traverse and up to the ring. Up the wall to the…
9/9+
Skalní hrad
To the right of the NE edge (six rings), higher up along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Skalní hrad
Through the crack between the edge and the tower to the ledge, traverse right to the edge…
6
Skalní hrad
From the 2nd ring, descend right and traverse right to the ring. Through the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Skalní hrad
Along the West edge over three rings to the 1st ring of Odkázaná route and up it to the…
6+/7-
Skalní hrad
Through the corner into the chimney and traverse left to the 1st ring. Stand left below…
7/7+
Skalní hrad
Through the crack over the 1st ring and a small overhang to the end and straight up the…
6-
Skalní hrad
Through the crack, higher up through the chimney to the 1st ring. Right to the 2nd ring,…
6
Skalní hrad
Through the corner dihedral in the edge to the end, traverse left (ring) into the saber,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Skalní hrad
Through the chimney to the ledge, traverse left into the corner and through it into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Skalní hrad
Through the corner, higher up through the chimney to the summit.
6
Skalní hrad
Through the corner dihedral of Stand's route to the end and left along the edge over the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Skalní hrad
Southwest route above the overhang and diagonally left through the recess over the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Skalní hrad
Descent into the gully and through the chimney. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Skalní hrad
By standing in and following the oblique crack. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
5+
Skalní hrad
Up the wall to the crack and through it over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Skalní hrad
Along the short East edge. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Skalní hrad
Start in the valley chimney through the crack to the pulpit, diagonally left to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Mlok
From the 4th K of the Cesty stoupajícího dýmu (Path of Rising Smoke) route, traverse 4 m… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Mlok
Start by the crack of the 'Cesta stoupajícího dýmu' (Path of Rising Smoke) route (here a…
6
Mlok
Through the notch in the edge to a small balcony and up the edge to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Mlok
Z. Strnad, Z. Lád5. 1984. Up the corner in the middle of the wall (1st ring) to the 2nd…
6+/7-
Mlok
To the left of the Cesty stoupajícího dýmu (Path of Rising Smoke) route, up an… Rock Climbing
6
Mlok
Along the right valley edge, up the wall and ramp to a ledge and via the Druhá směna… Rock Climbing
4-
Mlok
Normal route to the pine tree and to the left, up the sloping ramp to the summit. Rock Climbing

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