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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Google Waze
Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
2+
Krotitel
, (JPK)". Up the small chimney from J to the fore-rock and N. c. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Krotitel
From the 1st ring left onto the edge and behind it to the fore-rock. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Krotitel
Up the valley chimney for about 5 m, left into the wall, through a shallow indentation… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Krotitel
Through the chimney, right to the crack, along it (ring) to the ledge and to the summit.
4-
Krotitel
Through a narrow chimney in the left part of the valley wall to the summit.
Přeskok
Krotitel
By jumping from the edge of the massif. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Krotitel
From the block at the edge briefly upwards, left into the valley wall and along it to the…
6-
Krotitel
Through the center of the valley wall to the hourglass and traverse left into the crack.
2
Krotitel
Up the small wall and corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Lvíček
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Lvíček
Along the dihedral to the ring, right to the pillar to the ring (additionally placed for…
7-/7
Lvíček
From the right upper edge below the overhang, right to the 1st ring. Straight up the wall… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Lvíček
Up the wall to the left (ring) to the dihedral, through it to the ledge and diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Lvíček
From the balcony through the small corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Lvíček
Along the edge (two rings) to the ledge.
3
Lvíček
Through the chimney in the south wall to the summit Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Lvíček
South wall over two rings to the summit. (Approach possible via crack-VIIb). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
Přeskok
Lvíček
By jumping from the edge. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Lvíček
By stepping from the block into the wall and left to the ring. Up the wall to the small…
4+
Lvíček
Briefly up the wall, left to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Lvíček
Up the wall and through the corner. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Lvíček
Up the wall to the right of the edge to the small crack, through it to the balcony and…
6
Kočka
Start on the NE edge, right to the NW edge, along it to the ledge, back to the NE edge…
2+
Lvíček
Through the chimney in the north wall to the summit.
6+/7-
Kočka
Along the dihedral, higher up the wall (three rings) to the summit.
4-
Lvíček
Through the dihedral to the ledge and through the chimney to the summit.
6-
Kočka
Along the edge to the ring in the East wall and straight to the summit.
7/7+
Kočka
From the right part of the SW wall, traverse left on the ledge to the valley edge. Along… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kočka
Along the crack below the overhang (1st ring), from the left over the overhang, up the…
5
Podhradí
Through a short crack into the wall, traverse left over the ring below the narrow crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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