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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Google Waze
Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
4-
Mlok
Normal route to the pine tree and to the left, up the sloping ramp to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Mlok
Along the right valley edge, up the wall and ramp to a ledge and via the Druhá směna… Rock Climbing
6-
Bazilišek
To the right of the Snake Crack, up the wall to the 1st K. From the right, briefly up… Rock Climbing
5+
Bazilišek
Via the Snake Crack to the 1st K and further to the ledge (sling). Diagonally right along… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Mlok
Via the Against the Current route to the first ring and then directly over the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Mlok
Up the plateau wall around the pine tree. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Bazilišek
From the corner between Pláž and the NE wall of Bazilišek, up the chimney to a ledge and… Rock Climbing
6-
Bazilišek
From the lowest point of the valley wall, up the overhanging corner over the 1st to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Bazilišek
From the gully between Mlok and Bazilišek in the middle part of the wall, through a crack… Rock Climbing
5+
Vojta
In the right part of the valley wall over hourglasses to K and from the left up the wall… Rock Climbing
6-
Vojta
Up the left valley edge over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Faraón
Up the center of the valley wall directly over four rings, at the top over an overhang to…
7/7+
Faraón
Left of the 'Kamikaze' route, up the wall over S K into the 'Currant Shock' route and up… Rock Climbing
6-
Faraón
Via the 'Currant Shock' route 3m up and left to the edge to K. Slightly from the right to… Rock Climbing
6-
Faraón
Up the center of the wall to the notch, traverse right to the NE edge and along it (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Sfinga
From the start of the 'Waving Wings' route, up the wall to the left of the chimney over… Rock Climbing
5
Faraón
Jump onto the edge, or directly up the rounded edge. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
?
Faraón
From the valley up to the block, through cracks and a chimney under the roof (ring).…
5+
Faraón
First via the 'Drábské leporelo' route, then directly through the right crack into the… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Sfinga
Via the 'Drowning grasps at straws' route 8m, and right up the wall to the 1st and 2nd… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Sfinga
Along the blunt edge to the 1st ring, up to the ledge, traverse left into the hole and to…
6
Sfinga
Through a narrow crack (ring) under the overhang and up onto the ledge. Diagonally left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Sfinga
Along the grassy ledge, move left into the hole (hourglass), traverse left to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Sfinga
Behind the large block in the valley wall, from the slope up the wall to the 1st ring and… Rock Climbing
6-
Sfinga
Through the corner crack and chimney to the grassy ledge. A brittle traverse along ledges…
8-/8
Sfinga
Via the 'Spring Breath' route to the rappel ring and up the wall right over 2 rings to… Rock Climbing
5+
Sfinga
Via the route 'Indian Summer for Katka' to the 1st ring and the left crack to the grassy… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Sfinga
In the left part of the valley wall, through an overhanging corner and right up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Sfinga
From the left edge of the left part of the valley wall over blocks to the ledge and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Vánoční
Lunge/dyno to a hold on the overhanging wall, then directly over two ring bolts to a…

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