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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Google Waze
Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
4-
Čtyřlístek
Right of the "Rainy Season" route, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Čtyřlístek
Start with the "Idiot Promises No Merriment" route and left up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Čtyřlístek
Up the chimney, traverse onto the left edge, traverse left (hourglass) and directly to…
5+
Čtyřlístek
Traverse from the boulder into an oblique crack (protection) and up the wall left to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Čtyřlístek
Through the center of the valley wall to the 2nd ring, 1m left and up right to the 1st…
8/8+
Čtyřlístek
Up the valley wall via 5 rings.
7/7+
Čtyřlístek
In the valley wall, along the edge left of the chimney to the ring. Further along the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Čtyřlístek
Follow "Variant for a Cat" route over rings to the 1st ring of "Dog's Life". Left up the… Rock Climbing
7
Čtyřlístek
Up the wall to the ledge (ring). Up into the crack and higher to the right. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Čtyřlístek
Opposite the overhanging S. wall of Borůvka, up a prominent corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Čtyřlístek
To the left of Lála's Route, up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Borůvka
Over a step and through the gully. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Borůvka
Wall over two rings to the summit.
5+
Borůvka
By the wall to the left of the edge. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Borůvka
To the 1st ring of the Olympics and directly up the wall (ring). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Borůvka
By the wall and the crack. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Borůvka
Overhanging wall slightly to the left over three rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Borůvka
Along the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Borůvka
To the right of the S edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Borůvka
From the edge, oblique notch to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Borůvka
By chimney to the boulder and under it. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Kulich
Narrow valley wall to K and directly to the large hourglass. By crack, left onto the edge… Rock Climbing
5
Cvičná stěna
In the right part of the massif, wall via K to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Ferda
Traverse over the hole to the 1st ring and straight (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2+
Cvičná stěna
In the middle part of the massif, a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Cvičná stěna
To the left of Sosnová (Pine) wall via K to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Cvičná stěna
In the left part of the massif, along the edge to K, higher up a short crack to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Cvičná stěna
To the right of Sosnová (Pine) wall via K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Ferda
Traverse left to the valley edge to the ring, (by standing/building) and up the edge to…
5+
Ferda
Up the wall at the left upper edge over K to the summit. Rock Climbing

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