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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
7-/7
Dráb
From the left to the W edge, up to the hourglass and traverse right to the 1st ring. To…
7-/7
Dráb
From the ring directly (two rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Dráb
Wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Dráb
Middle of the wall to the ring, traverse 2 m left, wall to the holes and via the chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Dráb
Wall over three rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Dráb
Double stance to the crack and then to the ring. Right to the crack, through it and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
Přeskok
Dráb
By jumping to the pine tree. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Dráb
Stance to the crack and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Dráb
Left plateau edge over the ring to the summit.
7/7+
Dráb
Overhang to the ledge and diagonally right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Dráb
From the S edge right into the wall and along it to the ring. Straight up the wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Dráb
Up the overhanging wall left of the edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Partyzán
In the right part of the NW wall over 2K. to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Partyzán
Via the Memorial Route to the K, left to the edge and diagonally right over another K. to… Rock Climbing
6-
Partyzán
Along the Z edge directly to the hour-glass. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Partyzán
Along the left part of the wall to the balcony, along the slanting ledge left to the ring…
6-
Partyzán
From the carved room (hour-glass) along the blunt edge to the 1st ring and up to the…
6-
Partyzán
Via the Memorial Route to the balcony and over the spikes to the ring. Right onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Partyzán
Through the slanting notch to the edge, along it to the ring and with a high step to the…
7-/7
Partyzán
From the start of the Beam Route, a long traverse right to the 1st K. Up the overhanging… Rock Climbing
5+
Partyzán
Along the S edge to the hour-glass, onto the ledge and right into the hole, over the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Partyzán
From the passage through the overhanging wall directly to the ring, up and right to the…
4-
Partyzán
Up the chimney in the right part of the SW wall of the Drábský Massif 3 m to the ledge… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Partyzán
Along the edge to the balcony, along the ledges diagonally right to the W edge and to the…
7/7+
Čtyřlístek
Up the artificially sculpted edge over the ring.
6-
Čtyřlístek
From the gorge between Čtyřlístek and Drábský Massif in the center of the SW wall, up a… Rock Climbing
5+
Čtyřlístek
Along the edge to the ring, along the small crack to the ledge and obliquely left. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Čtyřlístek
Right of the "Idiot Promises No Merriment" route, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Čtyřlístek
Left of the "Ascending Edge", up the wall to the BH and directly over 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Čtyřlístek
Right of the "Rainy Season" route, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing

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