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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
5
Čínská zeď
Along the edge over the spire and three 'clocks' to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6-
Čínská zeď
Along the edge to the ring. From there, from the left and directly up the slab to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Čínská věžička
Up the center of the overhanging wall to the ledge and left to the edge.
6-
Čínská věžička
Up the center of the wall (drilled piton, ring) to the summit.
5
Čínská věžička
Along the SW edge to the ledge and traverse left to the edge. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Čínská věžička
Along the SW edge to the ledge and up the center of the wall over the ring to the summit.
6-
Čínská věžička
Along the edge (ring) to the summit.
6
Čínská věžička
From the center of the wall diagonally right to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Kovář
In the lower part of the gully between Herold and Kovář, up the crack behind the flake to… Rock Climbing
4+
Čínská věžička
Along the edge to the ledge and right up the wall to the summit.
4+
Kovář
Follow the 'On a short leash' route to the 1st K and further to the small balcony (loop).… Rock Climbing
5
Kovář
To the right of the 'On a short leash' route, traverse left along the ledge to below the… Rock Climbing
2+
Kovář
In the S plateau wall, up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kovář
To the right of the 'Chimney' route, up a short wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Trautenberk
Up the chimney from the valley to the edge of the pillar, then along the rounded edge…
6
Trautenberk
Through a prominent corner in the side wall over K under the overhang, right onto the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Dráb
From the left to the shelf to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the 2nd ring, difficult and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Dráb
From the ring, always along the crack left into the hole and via the crack over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Dráb
Up the wall, higher via the crack to the ring. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8/8+
Dráb
Left of the NW edge up the wall via K into a large hole and to the 1st K of the 'Padej… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8/8+
Dráb
Right of the 'Cesta ze strže' (Gully Route) up the wall into a large hole and right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Dráb
Via the 'Padej nahoru' (Fall Up) route into a large hole. Through another hole to K.,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Dráb
From the gully traverse right to the crack and to the ring. Up the crack, under the…
7/7+
Dráb
Along the edge to the balcony and via the crack in the NW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Dráb
Wall in line with the 2nd ring of the Děčínská route over the ring.
5+
Dráb
From the start of the SW wall, traverse continuously left to the 2nd ring.
6+/7-
Dráb
2 m right of the W edge directly to the hourglass.
5
Dráb
From the S edge from the wide ledge traverse into the SW wall left to the crack, along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Dráb
Left of the edge by wall to the ring and directly to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Dráb
From the left to the W edge, up to the hourglass and traverse right to the 1st ring. To…

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