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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Google Waze
Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5
Drábský masív
From the terrace, traverse left behind the edge to the crack and up it over the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Drábský masív
Up the wall along the edge over a drilled piton and two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
?
Drábský masív
Follow "Baťův test" route to the ring. Right along the ledge into the chimney and up it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Drábský masív
Up the chimney, traverse left and up the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Drábský masív
Up the wall to the birch tree and up to the ring. First straight, later right. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Drábský masív
From the summit of Partyzán, through the center of the wall over the overhang to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Drábský masív
From the solo ring from Partyzán directly to the ring, slightly right to the crack and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Drábský masív
Via the Ecce Homo route and further along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Drábský masív
Along the blunt edge to the 1st ring, traverse right and up to the 2nd ring. Straight up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Drábský masív
From the 2nd ring, up the friable wall to the 3rd ring, up the wall and over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Drábský masív
Approach via the "Director's Route" and left to the 1st ring. Left to the edge and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Drábský masív
Left of the edge above the entrance hut over the overhang to the edge and along it to the…
6-
Hláska (Clamorna)
In the left part of the plateau wall diagonally left up the wall to the ring and directly. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Hláska (Clamorna)
Through the chimney to the hourglass, traverse right into the hole and directly up the…
6+/7-
Herold
Along the ledge to the ring, up the wall to the niche (clock) and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Herold
From the gully, completely on the right side of the wall, diagonally right through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
11
Železník
Up the center of the iron-rich wall (loops) to the ring and directly into the holes. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Štuky
Via the right carved corner over two rings to the end (loops). Up the wall below the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jeskynní stěna
Up the NE wall to the hole (hourglass) and upwards to the ring. Right to the edge, along…
5+
Klamorna
Between the 'Stromový žlábek' and 'Oreovka' routes via a crack and the wall over the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Lom
Via a crack in the corner (ring) to the top.
6
Lom
Via a small pillar and a wide crack over two rings to the top.
6
Herold
Up the wall from the left into the hollow and through it (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Herold
Along the edge over three rings to the sloping ledge, traverse along it into the chimney…
6-
Herold
Up the wall to the right into the notch, along it to the end and left to the ring. From…
7-/7
Herold
Follow the 'Sverozápaní gully' route into the hole and left to the 1st K. Straight up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Hláska (Clamorna)
Along the edge over the hourglass and six rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Hláska (Clamorna)
Along the ledge left to the small edge and up to the 1st ring. Left of the ring up the…
7-/7
Hláska (Clamorna)
Over the shelf and overhang to the 1st ring, via the crack (2nd ring) into the corner of…
8/8+
Hláska (Clamorna)
Along the edge over five rings to the summit.

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