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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
6+/7-
Loukovák
To the right above the NW wall of the massif through the crack to the 1st ring and higher… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Loukovák
In the right part of the NW wall directly to the 1st ring. Over the ledge to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Loukovák
From the lowest point of the valley wall through the left crack to the ledge and right to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Loukovák
Via the route "Dovolená u Jizery" (Holiday by the Jizera) to the 1st ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Loukovák
To the right of the route Solitaire along the blunt edge over the 1st ring, hourglasses… Rock Climbing
6-
Loukovák
From the upper ledge to the right of the route Večernice (Evening Star) along the edge… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Loukovák
Through the middle of the NW wall over 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Loukovák
In the left part of the NW wall directly to the crack and through it to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Loukovák
10m left of the right valley edge up the wall to the 1st ring. Up the wall directly,… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Loukovák
From the start of the route "Nedbalá elegance" (Careless Elegance) up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
5
Prstýnek
Via a crack in the right part of the valley wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Loukovák
In the valley wall right of the chimney with a large wedged block along the edge and the… Rock Climbing
2
Prstýnek
Via the NE small wall and along the small crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Klamorna
Briefly via the 'Salabova řiť' route, then up the wall over the hourglass to the small… Rock Climbing
4+
Klamorna
About 6 m to the left of the left valley edge, via a corner to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Klamorna
In the middle part of the valley wall via a zigzag crack to the ledge and via the left… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Klamorna
To the right of the left valley edge, straight up the wall over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Klamorna
Via the valley crack route to the ledge and via the right crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Klamorna
To the right of the 'Salabovo štěstí' route, up the wall along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Klamorna
Via the left valley edge over two hourglasses to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Jeskynní stěna
From the terrace in the middle part of the SW wall, to the left of the hourglass, up the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Jeskynní stěna
Start from the terrace at the hourglass like the Miss Blanche route and from the right up… Rock Climbing
6-
Jeskynní stěna
Via a sharp small pillar into a hole (pinnacle) and via a crack (hourglass at the end) to… Rock Climbing
2
Jeskynní stěna
Via the chimney from the south between the pillar and the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Jeskynní stěna
In the left part of the SW wall from the terrace below the elevated step, straight up the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Jeskynní stěna
From the terrace in the right part of the SW wall to the ledge and up the wall over 2… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Jeskynní stěna
To the left of the 'Jiří's Vision' route from the elevated step directly over a bolt and… Rock Climbing
6
Jah jah
In the right part of the wall over the hourglass to the 1st ring. From the right up the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Jah jah
In the middle part of the wall via a small pillar left to the hourglass and right to the… Rock Climbing
6
Jah jah
Via the left part of the wall over 2 rings to the ledge and from the right over the 3rd… Rock Climbing

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