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Climbing at Drábské světničky

927 routes
112 areas
2–11 grades

Drábské světničky on Mužský in Bohemian Paradise offer more than 900 routes on 112 rocks – for example Drábský masív, Rovné skály, Dráb, Bivak, Balustráda and Hláska (Clamorna). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 11.

Part of Rocks on Mužský, Drábské světničky has 927 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 11. Explore its 112 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature protection documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority NP Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Parking

50.52877, 15.02878

Drábský masív 48 routes Rovné skály 30 routes Dráb 26 routes Bivak 25 routes Balustráda 25 routes Hláska (Clamorna) 22 routes Lanclova vyhlídka (Nočník) 21 routes Čínská zeď 21 routes Puklá věž 20 routes Skalní hrad 20 routes Trojitá věž 20 routes Čtyřlístek 17 routes Morous 16 routes Lvíček 15 routes Kočičí stěna 14 routes Jezinka 13 routes Šapitó 12 routes Studený průchod 12 routes Masiv starých časů 12 routes Loukovák 12 routes Katedrála 12 routes Sokol 12 routes Partyzán 12 routes Drábský sloup 12 routes Mlok 11 routes Věžička u rozcestí 11 routes Sfinga 11 routes Průchodová 10 routes Krotitel 10 routes Zpěvačka 10 routes Ztracená země 10 routes Borůvka 10 routes Machkova věž 10 routes Pamětní věž 10 routes Kaskády 9 routes Tučňák 9 routes Kamarádská věž 9 routes Herold 9 routes Stařena 9 routes Jeskynní stěna 8 routes Bludiště 8 routes Plynárna 8 routes Olšinská věžička 8 routes Václavák 8 routes Mušle 8 routes Klamorna 8 routes Janebova věž 8 routes Třetí věž 8 routes Čínská věžička 7 routes Štuky 7 routes Pig 7 routes Pulec 7 routes Svatá Anežka 7 routes Komáří masív 7 routes Ferda 7 routes Faraón 7 routes Černá jehla 6 routes Doubravská věž 6 routes Knedlík 6 routes Skalka 6 routes Cvičná stěna 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Šutr 5 routes Kapradí 5 routes Kovář 5 routes Vechtr 5 routes Věž Vlasty Štáflové 5 routes Modrá planeta 5 routes Květ oslav 5 routes Země žen 5 routes Půlpinta 5 routes Sup 5 routes Vřesáček 5 routes Kočka 5 routes Podhradí 4 routes Mariánka 4 routes Jogín 4 routes Pískovna 4 routes Dragoun 4 routes Pláž 4 routes Žuk 4 routes Železník 4 routes Tobogán 4 routes Matterhorn 4 routes Dušičková věž 4 routes Kotě 4 routes Nenitověž 3 routes Spící mnich 3 routes El miska 3 routes Bludička 3 routes Jah jah 3 routes Geront 3 routes Lom 3 routes Vánoční 3 routes Atletická stěna 3 routes Pragovka 3 routes Věž puberťáků 3 routes Trubková jehla 3 routes Průvan 2 routes Tajuplný měsíc 2 routes Pralinka 2 routes Trautenberk 2 routes Kapřík 2 routes Vojta 2 routes Prstýnek 2 routes Kartářka 2 routes Ostříž 2 routes Kvido 2 routes Mongol 1 route Kulich 1 route Robinson 1 route Baterka 1 route
5+
Drábský masív
Between "Hungry Route" and the chimney, up the wall to the ring and directly or right… Rock Climbing
5+
Drábský masív
In the left part of the chimney between Drábský Massif and Drábský Pillar, briefly by… Rock Climbing
5+
Drábský masív
Right of the Entrance Edge up the chimney to the 1st K. Over the overhang to the 2nd K… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Černá jehla
Between the chimney and the edge on the SW side, jump to a ledge and up the overhanging… Rock Climbing
6-
Václavák
To the right of the Woodworm show route from the right or left to the ledge and to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Václavák
From the slope above the Woodworm show route, chimney and higher up by crack to the… Rock Climbing
7
Václavák
In the upper part of the S wall between the chimney and the edge, wall to the ring.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Václavák
From the plateau side, NE edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Václavák
On the plateau side between Borůvka (Blueberry) and Václavák, by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Václavák
In the left part of the SW wall, start by a narrow chimney and another oblique chimney to… Rock Climbing
5
Václavák
From NW, by chimney onto the block, along the edge over the spike to K and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Václavák
From the saddle between Václavák and Vřesáček, by crack in the corner (loops) to K, by… Rock Climbing
6-
Vřesáček
In the SW wall, by crack via K to the ledge and a sloping slab via BH to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Vřesáček
In the right part of the NW wall, by oblique crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Vřesáček
In the left part of the NW wall, by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Vřesáček
From the saddle between Vřesáček and Václavák, chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Vřesáček
Wall along the S edge via 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Balustráda
To the left of Milanese Spaghetti, along the crack to a small ledge and another crack via… Rock Climbing
4-
Balustráda
On the plateau side, the starting block collapsed, making Stará cesta (Old Route) and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Balustráda
From the block on the plateau side, wall via K into the notch and directly by crack to… Rock Climbing
6-
Balustráda
In the left part of the valley wall, up over the hourglass to K. From the left, wall to… Rock Climbing
5+
Balustráda
Along the left valley edge, wall to the 1st K. Directly to the ledge and a sloping wall… Rock Climbing
6-
Balustráda
Crack in the center of the valley wall via K to the ledge, where the route ends. Rock Climbing
6
Balustráda
In the right part of the valley wall, initially by an overhanging crack (loops) to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Balustráda
From the large overhang in the SW wall, a small crack in the ceiling over the overhang,… Rock Climbing
5+
Balustráda
On the plateau side, the starting block collapsed, making Stará cesta (Old Route) and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Balustráda
Middle of the overhanging plateau wall via 5 B H directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Věž puberťáků
From the edge of the massif by a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Věž puberťáků
Valley wall to 1st K, crack to the ledge to 2nd K and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Věž puberťáků
Short plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing

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