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Climbing at Kapelník

898 routes
108 areas
1–9 grades

Kapelník in central Hruboskalsko in Bohemian Paradise offers almost 900 routes on 108 towers – for example Zlatá vyhlídka, Dominstein (Smítkova věž), Křemenová, Korál, Vyhlídka u Lvíčka and Slunečná. The climbing is traditional on sandstone towers with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9.

Part of Hruboskalsko centre, Kapelník has 898 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9. Explore its 108 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions apply to specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps of the Nature Conservation Authority of the Český Ráj Protected Landscape Area

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Zlatá vyhlídka 32 routes Dominstein (Smítkova věž) 30 routes Křemenová 30 routes Korál 27 routes Vyhlídka u Lvíčka 26 routes Slunečná 23 routes Jenovefa 22 routes Podmokelská 22 routes Kapelník 22 routes Dubová věž 21 routes Opomenutá 21 routes Sfinga 18 routes Cikán 16 routes Bivaková 15 routes Mravenčí 15 routes Cikánka 15 routes Nábožná 14 routes Čarodějnice 14 routes Lengáčova skála 14 routes Útesy 13 routes Tabulová hora 13 routes Jeřabí 13 routes Vřesová 12 routes Kořenského věž 12 routes Panny 12 routes Piták 11 routes Odraziště 11 routes Baba Jaga 11 routes Praděd 11 routes Netopýr 11 routes Mešita 10 routes Lavice 10 routes Taktovka 9 routes Cikáně 9 routes Kladívko 9 routes Vruboun posvátný 9 routes Pyramida 9 routes Julie 8 routes Křehká 8 routes Pirova věž 8 routes Náhrobní kámen 8 routes Palice 8 routes Borová 8 routes Monolit 8 routes Večerní věž 7 routes Šmudla 7 routes Krtina 7 routes Stěna s viklanem 7 routes Hezoun 7 routes Chroustova věž 7 routes Mužíček 7 routes Lovecká stěna 6 routes Velikonoční věž 6 routes Zapomenutá 6 routes Faraon 6 routes Kulička 6 routes Michaela 6 routes Svéhlavička 6 routes Koule 6 routes Paličák 5 routes Egypťan 5 routes Boule 5 routes Smutná 5 routes Boulička 5 routes Vagónek 5 routes Michal 5 routes Lvíček 4 routes Pašerák 4 routes Róm 4 routes Byrokrat 4 routes Parašutista 4 routes Lasička 4 routes Blíženci 4 routes Borůvka 4 routes Minaret 4 routes Skín 4 routes Stojan 4 routes Mechová 4 routes Buffa 4 routes Kaple 4 routes Aladar 4 routes Blázen 4 routes Botanická zahrada 3 routes Velvet 3 routes Výčep (Zadní masiv) 3 routes Polednice 3 routes Svéhlavička-předskalí 3 routes Zmije 3 routes Trpaslík 3 routes Mánkovec 3 routes Filmař 3 routes Letadlo 3 routes Seskok 2 routes Malinká 2 routes Archa 2 routes Egyptská stěna 2 routes Zoo 2 routes Sv. Ján 2 routes Těžítko 2 routes Kapr 2 routes Krakatice 1 route Packa 1 route Katalog 1 route Bobulička 1 route Bodlák 1 route Lavice - západní předskalí 1 route Loupák 1 route Zábradlí 1 route
6-
Lavice
From SE up the chimney about 5m and traverse left behind the edge to the ring. Up along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Lavice
Up the crack for several meters, traverse right into another crack, up it over a ring,… Rock Climbing
2
Lavice
From the foresummit under the NW wall to the ledge in the SW wall, right and along the… Rock Climbing
3
Vřesová
In the high-plateau wall, diagonally right to a small ledge along the edge. Up a short… Rock Climbing
6
Vřesová
Left of the route "Spring Fatigue" up an overhanging small wall through holes to an… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vřesová
By a long traverse from the right to the 1st ring of the "Hungry Edge" and along it to… Rock Climbing
4
Vřesová
From the ledge below the NW wall, left and up the N edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Vřesová
In the NE wall, traverse left along the ledge to the edge, up to the ring, and slightly… Rock Climbing
6
Vřesová
Via the route "Calluna Vulgaris" to the 1st ring. Up over the overhang and left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Vřesová
From the slope, left to the ledge and up the wall over 2 rings to the forepeak's summit. Rock Climbing
5
Vřesová
From S, along the ledge under the overhang to the right into the wall, up to a shallow… Rock Climbing
6-
Vřesová
Through the middle of the valley wall over 3 rings and up the corner to the forepeak. Rock Climbing
6
Vřesová
Same as route "Stěna proti Taktovce" (Wall against the Baton), along the ledge briefly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vřesová
Left of the "Diagonal Route" up the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Vřesová
From SE, along the valley edge via an overhanging wall to a ledge (belay). Over the… Rock Climbing
6
Svéhlavička
*** ATTENTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, rings may be of questionable quality… Rock Climbing
6
Svéhlavička
*** ATTENTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, rings may be of questionable quality… Rock Climbing
6-
Svéhlavička
*** ATTENTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, rings may be of questionable quality… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Svéhlavička
In the left part of the SE wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Svéhlavička
Along the ledge into the overhanging N wall. Through the crack to its end and slightly… Rock Climbing
4
Svéhlavička
From S, briefly up the overhanging wall to a horizontal notch. Here, right to a short… Rock Climbing
7
Korál
Through cracks under the overhang and along the edge via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Korál
*** ATTENTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, rings may be of questionable quality… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Korál
Through the crack in the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Korál
*** ATTENTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, rings may be of questionable quality… Rock Climbing
4
Korál
From the NW over the overhang and via the W edge. Rock Climbing
6
Korál
Up the center of the wall over the hourglass to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Korál
*** ATTENTION *** In some routes by Petr Prachtel, rings may be of questionable quality… Rock Climbing
6
Korál
From the left over the slab to the ring and via the overhanging gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Korál
To the right of the route "Ztohoven" via the slab, higher up over the overhang via a ring… Rock Climbing

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