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Climbing at Kapelník

898 routes
108 areas
1–9 grades

Kapelník in central Hruboskalsko in Bohemian Paradise offers almost 900 routes on 108 towers – for example Zlatá vyhlídka, Dominstein (Smítkova věž), Křemenová, Korál, Vyhlídka u Lvíčka and Slunečná. The climbing is traditional on sandstone towers with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9.

Part of Hruboskalsko centre, Kapelník has 898 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9. Explore its 108 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions apply to specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps of the Nature Conservation Authority of the Český Ráj Protected Landscape Area

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Zlatá vyhlídka 32 routes Dominstein (Smítkova věž) 30 routes Křemenová 30 routes Korál 27 routes Vyhlídka u Lvíčka 26 routes Slunečná 23 routes Jenovefa 22 routes Podmokelská 22 routes Kapelník 22 routes Dubová věž 21 routes Opomenutá 21 routes Sfinga 18 routes Cikán 16 routes Bivaková 15 routes Mravenčí 15 routes Cikánka 15 routes Nábožná 14 routes Čarodějnice 14 routes Lengáčova skála 14 routes Útesy 13 routes Tabulová hora 13 routes Jeřabí 13 routes Vřesová 12 routes Kořenského věž 12 routes Panny 12 routes Piták 11 routes Odraziště 11 routes Baba Jaga 11 routes Praděd 11 routes Netopýr 11 routes Mešita 10 routes Lavice 10 routes Taktovka 9 routes Cikáně 9 routes Kladívko 9 routes Vruboun posvátný 9 routes Pyramida 9 routes Julie 8 routes Křehká 8 routes Pirova věž 8 routes Náhrobní kámen 8 routes Palice 8 routes Borová 8 routes Monolit 8 routes Večerní věž 7 routes Šmudla 7 routes Krtina 7 routes Stěna s viklanem 7 routes Hezoun 7 routes Chroustova věž 7 routes Mužíček 7 routes Lovecká stěna 6 routes Velikonoční věž 6 routes Zapomenutá 6 routes Faraon 6 routes Kulička 6 routes Michaela 6 routes Svéhlavička 6 routes Koule 6 routes Paličák 5 routes Egypťan 5 routes Boule 5 routes Smutná 5 routes Boulička 5 routes Vagónek 5 routes Michal 5 routes Lvíček 4 routes Pašerák 4 routes Róm 4 routes Byrokrat 4 routes Parašutista 4 routes Lasička 4 routes Blíženci 4 routes Borůvka 4 routes Minaret 4 routes Skín 4 routes Stojan 4 routes Mechová 4 routes Buffa 4 routes Kaple 4 routes Aladar 4 routes Blázen 4 routes Botanická zahrada 3 routes Velvet 3 routes Výčep (Zadní masiv) 3 routes Polednice 3 routes Svéhlavička-předskalí 3 routes Zmije 3 routes Trpaslík 3 routes Mánkovec 3 routes Filmař 3 routes Letadlo 3 routes Seskok 2 routes Malinká 2 routes Archa 2 routes Egyptská stěna 2 routes Zoo 2 routes Sv. Ján 2 routes Těžítko 2 routes Kapr 2 routes Krakatice 1 route Packa 1 route Katalog 1 route Bobulička 1 route Bodlák 1 route Lavice - západní předskalí 1 route Loupák 1 route Zábradlí 1 route
7
Cikánka
Up the wall and along the edge over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Cikánka
Through the broken crack over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Polednice
From the northeast, up the corner crack to the small balcony and up the small wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Mechová
From E, over the overhang to the right into the valley wall onto the shelf. Up the… Rock Climbing
7
Polednice
Up the wall to the left of the east edge to the ring. Directly onto the shelf (hourglass)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mechová
Up the plateau wall with a high move to the overgrown fore-rock and up the smooth,… Rock Climbing Danger Vertical wall
6-
Polednice
To the left of the crack, up the wall from the right to the ring. Up into the hole and… Rock Climbing
5
Blázen
Briefly up the SW edge, over the hourglass to the right into the E wall and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Mechová
Up the wall in the fall line of the south edge to the ledge, directly over the overhang… Rock Climbing
2
Mechová
Up the short S edge to the balcony. Around the head, traverse to the ledge on the E side… Rock Climbing
5
Blázen
Through the notch in the plateau edge and with a high move to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Blázen
From the valley over the overhang, slightly right and up over the ring to the shelf. From… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Blázen
Up the center of the NW wall to the ledge, left and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Večerní věž
Via the "Fifan variant" to the Sphinx to the ring bolt. Left via the gully (thread… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Večerní věž
"Standard route" to the saddle and up the center of the wall, higher via the indentation… Rock Climbing
3
Večerní věž
"Standard route" to the Sphinx into the saddle and along the left edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Večerní věž
Left of the edge up the wall over a ring bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Večerní věž
From the saddle obliquely right and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Večerní věž
From the saddle up the center of the NW face via fissures, higher up the small wall to… Rock Climbing
6
Sfinga
Through the wide chimney between Sphinx and Mravenčí (Ant Tower) to the ring bolt, via… Rock Climbing
6
Večerní věž
In the valley face obliquely left to the 1st ring bolt. Up the wall and via the gully to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Sfinga
Along the edge (four ring bolts) to the 2nd ring bolt of the "For Criminals" route and… Rock Climbing
6
Sfinga
*** ATTENTION *** In some of Petr Prachtel's routes, the ring bolts may be of dubious… Rock Climbing
6-
Sfinga
Left of the "Corner Variant" along the edge over a ring bolt into the saddle and freely… Rock Climbing
6
Sfinga
Right of the route "Made by Pepas" via the chimney to the ring bolt. Up the wall over 2… Rock Climbing
6
Sfinga
From S to a wide grassy ledge on the NE face. From its left edge to the 1st ring bolt.… Rock Climbing
4
Sfinga
From the platform under the summit head to the right to the crack on the N side. Via the… Rock Climbing
?
Sfinga
At the edge, left of the "For Criminals" route. Ring bolt. Rock Climbing
4
Sfinga
From the highest point of the saddle briefly up and left to the crack. Up it to the ledge… Rock Climbing
7
Sfinga
Up the wall along the crack to the ring. Up the friable wall slightly left to the balcony… Rock Climbing

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