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Climbing at Kapelník

898 routes
108 areas
1–9 grades

Kapelník in central Hruboskalsko in Bohemian Paradise offers almost 900 routes on 108 towers – for example Zlatá vyhlídka, Dominstein (Smítkova věž), Křemenová, Korál, Vyhlídka u Lvíčka and Slunečná. The climbing is traditional on sandstone towers with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9.

Part of Hruboskalsko centre, Kapelník has 898 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9. Explore its 108 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions apply to specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps of the Nature Conservation Authority of the Český Ráj Protected Landscape Area

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Zlatá vyhlídka 32 routes Dominstein (Smítkova věž) 30 routes Křemenová 30 routes Korál 27 routes Vyhlídka u Lvíčka 26 routes Slunečná 23 routes Jenovefa 22 routes Podmokelská 22 routes Kapelník 22 routes Dubová věž 21 routes Opomenutá 21 routes Sfinga 18 routes Cikán 16 routes Bivaková 15 routes Mravenčí 15 routes Cikánka 15 routes Nábožná 14 routes Čarodějnice 14 routes Lengáčova skála 14 routes Útesy 13 routes Tabulová hora 13 routes Jeřabí 13 routes Vřesová 12 routes Kořenského věž 12 routes Panny 12 routes Piták 11 routes Odraziště 11 routes Baba Jaga 11 routes Praděd 11 routes Netopýr 11 routes Mešita 10 routes Lavice 10 routes Taktovka 9 routes Cikáně 9 routes Kladívko 9 routes Vruboun posvátný 9 routes Pyramida 9 routes Julie 8 routes Křehká 8 routes Pirova věž 8 routes Náhrobní kámen 8 routes Palice 8 routes Borová 8 routes Monolit 8 routes Večerní věž 7 routes Šmudla 7 routes Krtina 7 routes Stěna s viklanem 7 routes Hezoun 7 routes Chroustova věž 7 routes Mužíček 7 routes Lovecká stěna 6 routes Velikonoční věž 6 routes Zapomenutá 6 routes Faraon 6 routes Kulička 6 routes Michaela 6 routes Svéhlavička 6 routes Koule 6 routes Paličák 5 routes Egypťan 5 routes Boule 5 routes Smutná 5 routes Boulička 5 routes Vagónek 5 routes Michal 5 routes Lvíček 4 routes Pašerák 4 routes Róm 4 routes Byrokrat 4 routes Parašutista 4 routes Lasička 4 routes Blíženci 4 routes Borůvka 4 routes Minaret 4 routes Skín 4 routes Stojan 4 routes Mechová 4 routes Buffa 4 routes Kaple 4 routes Aladar 4 routes Blázen 4 routes Botanická zahrada 3 routes Velvet 3 routes Výčep (Zadní masiv) 3 routes Polednice 3 routes Svéhlavička-předskalí 3 routes Zmije 3 routes Trpaslík 3 routes Mánkovec 3 routes Filmař 3 routes Letadlo 3 routes Seskok 2 routes Malinká 2 routes Archa 2 routes Egyptská stěna 2 routes Zoo 2 routes Sv. Ján 2 routes Těžítko 2 routes Kapr 2 routes Krakatice 1 route Packa 1 route Katalog 1 route Bobulička 1 route Bodlák 1 route Lavice - západní předskalí 1 route Loupák 1 route Zábradlí 1 route
6
Sfinga
From N from the saddle between Sfinga and Jeřabí up the corner crack to the saddle. Rock Climbing
8
Sfinga
Up the chimney left of "Vnitřní cesta" to the ring and up the wall slightly left to the… Rock Climbing
8
Sfinga
From the edge and wall to the ring bolt. (With aid) and cracks to the ledge, right to the… Rock Climbing
6
Sfinga
From the 1st ring of "Egyptská hrana" traverse left behind the edge to the small pillar… Rock Climbing
6
Sfinga
From "Koutová varianta" right and directly to the 1st ring. Up and right along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Sfinga
Start in the middle of the wall above the small cave. Up the small pillar to the left… Rock Climbing
8
Sfinga
Up the wall directly over the ring under the head and up the overhanging edge to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Sfinga
From the right to the edge and along it (two rings) to the platform below the head. "N. c… Rock Climbing
8
Mravenčí
From the left to the edge, up it over a ring into the hole, right into the chimney, up it… Rock Climbing
6-
Mravenčí
Left of the passage up the crack (or right up the wall) and over the ledges to the 1st… Rock Climbing
6-
Mravenčí
Via the NE edge route to the 1st ring. Further directly along the edge to the cornice to… Rock Climbing
6-
Mravenčí
From the ledge above the 2nd ring of "Východní hrana" up the wall obliquely left to the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Mravenčí
By jumping from Lavice. Rock Climbing
3
Mravenčí
From the foresummit up the crack in the upper wall. Rock Climbing
4
Mravenčí
Up the SE chimney briefly, left and through the gully in the left corner to the saddle… Rock Climbing
4
Mravenčí
From the foresummit, step across to the W edge and right along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Mravenčí
Up the S edge to the sloping ledge and up the overhanging edge (two rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Mravenčí
From SE up the chimney to the saddle between Mravenčí and Lavice. "N. c." to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Mravenčí
Start up the crack like "Východní hrana" higher up the wall left to the 1st ring. Further… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Mravenčí
From N up the wide chimney, higher up along the crack in the inner wall to the foresummit… Rock Climbing
6
Mravenčí
Up the crack from the gorge between Mravenčí and Sfinga to the foresummit. Any way to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Mravenčí
From the 1st ring of "Východní hrana" directly along the edge and up the crack to the 3rd… Rock Climbing
6-
Mravenčí
From the passage between Mravenčí and Sfinga up the chimney over the hourglass to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Lavice
Start like "Kamaradská cesta". Up the crack over the hourglass to the foresummit, higher… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Lavice
"N. c." to the ledge, obliquely left to the W edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Lavice
Start left of the distinct corner on the N side of the foresummit. Up the crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Lavice
Along the crack to the 1st ring. Left and through the hole to the 2nd ring. Up the small… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Lavice
Up the chimney 3m above the "Kyselovy cesty" traverse. Traverse left (ring) to the edge,… Rock Climbing
6
Lavice
*** CAUTION *** In some of Petr Prachtel's routes, the rings may be of dubious quality or… Rock Climbing
6
Lavice
Directly to the 1st ring. Slightly from the right (crossing "Kamaradská cesta") and… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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