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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
Roklice a Loubenský potok 1272 routes Kokořín Valley 1140 routes Planý důl 904 routes Rač 839 routes Obrok 818 routes Mšeno 611 routes Beškov 317 routes Blatečky 313 routes Vlhošť a Stříbrný vrch 305 routes Doksy 302 routes Vidim 279 routes Česká Lípa 265 routes Blíževedly 220 routes Dražejov and Nedvězí 205 routes Chudolazy 199 routes Želízy and Tupadly 195 routes Osinalice 189 routes Dolní Zimoř 172 routes Vlkov 164 routes Tubož 162 routes Úštěk 139 routes Šemanovice 139 routes Moon Valley 128 routes Popelov 127 routes Nové Osinalice 127 routes Hradčanské stěny 102 routes Zakšín 99 routes Houska 81 routes Skalská tabule 78 routes Nový Berštejn 33 routes
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6-
Kokořík
Difficult N into the wide west chimney, up it to the K (bolt) and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kokořík
Along the left upper (east) edge to the K (bolt) on the shelf and over the overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Kokořík
From the east, descend on the slabs M to the tower and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Pýr plazivý
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Věž nad Ochozkou
From the massif from the south onto the sloping slab and to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kokořík
By the chimney between M and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Zeměžluč
Up the eastern face diagonally left past the K (bolt) to the balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Paroháč
By the corner from SW to the balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Paroháč
Up the slope wall of the pillar diagonally right and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Jerry Packard
From the east, by the chimney to the pillar and to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Jerry Packard
From the massif from the north, by a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Jerry Packard
From the west, by the chimney to the pillar and by the route 'Irishman' to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Zeměžluč
From the massif, fall into the face and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Zeměžluč
By the chimney between M and the tower, fall into the face and to the summit (poorly… Rock Climbing
1
Tropická věžička
East chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Paroháč
From the boulder in the gully, step over to the wall and to the left under the crack.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Velevrub
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Paroháč
Depression from NW to the balcony and n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Velevrub
From the valley side through the chimney to the balcony in the valley wall and then… Rock Climbing
6
Paroháč
Southwest route, about 4 m higher, traverse right (slings) to the crack (knot) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Tropická věžička
Jump from the south n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Tropická věžička
Valley corner to K and wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Tropická věžička
Chimney with opposition holds from the north n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Paroháč
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Svinibrodská věž
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Kříženci
From the upper side through the chimney, to its end and onto the balcony. Traverse… Rock Climbing
2
Kříženci
Jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Kříženci
South edge and slab to the left of it n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Kříženci
West edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Podhradská věž
From the saddle under the upper wall to the left, traverse to the balcony (loops) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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