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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
8
Faustova stěna
Through the center of the left part of the wall under the overhang to the 1st bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Faustova stěna
Through the chimney between the right and left parts of the wall, not topped out. Rock Climbing
8
Faustova stěna
Through the center of the right part of the wall over 2 K under the overhang, over it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zelená žába
Through the center of the descending wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Zelený rybář
By chimney and the wall in the middle of the upland wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Zelený rybář
From the massif by jump n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Zelený rybář
Through the center of the descending wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Hastrman
By step-over from M to the clock on the SW edge and left by the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Zelený rybář
By chimney between the towers to K and by the wall n.v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Zelená žába
From the upland side traverse right into the SW wall and by it n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Zelená žába
Through the center of the upland wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Zelená žába
Left of the left descending edge by the wall n.v. Rock Climbing
3
Zelený rybář
From SW by the corner to the balcony and by the edge further n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pětkařská věž
By the SW wall over ledges to the crack and n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Pětkařská věž
From W from the massif, overhang to the bench and by the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Pětkařská věž
By the chimney near the W edge to the bench and by the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Pětkařská věž
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Pětkařská věž
By chimney between "Vodník" and the tower to K and by the wall n.v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Sanson
Along the north edge across 3 Ks, top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Zelený slon
In the right part of the lower wall via K into a distinct recess and straight up it, top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zelený slon
Standing onto the SW edge, into the notch and to K. Via the right crack, top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Sanson
Through the center of the northwest face across 3 Ks to the pine tree, top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Sanson
From the upper side via the gully, top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Zelený slon
From the gully along the rounded edge to K, higher up via the crack, top. Rock Climbing
6
Zelený slon
Via the edge across K, top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Libuška
Chimney on the SE side n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Libuška
Through the center of the downhill wall, a gully to the bolt. Up the face from the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Libuška
Along the plateau edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Libuška
Chimney on the NW side n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Lokomotiva
In the right part of the W face, a chimney in the corner n. t. Rock Climbing

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