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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Rejžáček
On the left part of the S wall to K, into the notch and at the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Rejžáček
In the right part of the S wall to K and by the edge (sling) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Vodnice
Through the center of the valley wall over K directly n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vodnice
On the left side of the upper wall, at the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Vodnice
From the eastern massif n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Labyrint
To the left of the chimney dividing "Vrátnice" and the tower, up the edge via 2 Ks n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Labyrint
Up the left part of the valley wall along the crack to the 1st and 2nd Ks. Directly over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vodnice
In the right part of the NE wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Labyrint
From the west, up the chimney between the foothills and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Labyrint
To the right of the Long Chimney, up the face via 2 Ks to the top of the foothills and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Labyrint
Up the crack and chimney between the foothills and the adjacent block to the summit, jump… Rock Climbing
5
Labyrint
From the west, up the right chimney to the top of the foothills and a jump n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Labyrint
From the southeast, from the foothills with three jumps n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Labyrint
From the southeast, up the chimney to the block and then the crack n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Vrátnice
In the right part of the west face, up the crack via 3 Ks n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vrátnice
In the right part of the north face via 3 Ks n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vrátnice
In the center of the west face, up the corner via K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vrátnice
In the right part of the west face via 3 Ks n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9
Strážce Štampachu
Up the right valley edge, then higher up the face along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Danger
3
Vrátnice
By a jump from the "Labyrinth" n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Vrátnice
From the east through the chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
8
Strážce Štampachu
Up the center of the upland face to a ledge and over the overhang (ring) directly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Strážce Štampachu
Up the center of the upland face to a ledge and diagonally left n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Šlaufek
From the upland side diagonally left to the ledge, left into the south face and n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Rakovinová věž
In the left part of the lower wall, via a bolt (K) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9
Strážce Štampachu
To the left of the overhang and the route "Orange Death's-head Hawkmoth" via a smooth… Rock Climbing
7
Strážce Štampachu
Up the right part of the upland edge directly n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Komorská věž
Through the gully in the valley wall to the ledge and along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Strážce Štampachu
Up the left upland edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Rakovinová věž
In the right part of the lower wall, up the chimney and then along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing

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