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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Pinka
Up the left part of the NE small wall along the crack n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Havířská věž (Též Čihadlo aj.)
Along the small ridge from the west n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Havířská věž (Též Čihadlo aj.)
From the rock to the left of "Western Ridge" directly onto the small ridge and n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Havířská věž (Též Čihadlo aj.)
Up the right part of the north face to the ridge and n. v. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Havířská věž (Též Čihadlo aj.)
In the left part of the north face at the edge up the wall (BH) below the summit swing … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
1
Rysák
From the massif from NE by traverse n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Rysák
From S to the right in the massif by a groove, to the left by a chimney between the tower… Rock Climbing
6
Havířská věž (Též Čihadlo aj.)
Through the center of the north face (BH) over overhangs directly n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Rysák
By chimney from NE between the massif and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Pochůzkář
From the massif from S n. v. Rock Climbing
?
Pochůzkář
From N from the massif by traverse n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Lodní bok
Completely on the left in the valley wall by crack (or from the foreground rock) to K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Lodní bok
On the left in the valley wall over the overhang, through the wall over 2 K and from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Pochůzkář
By stemming and then N edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Rysák
From NW by traverse n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Pochůzkář
By chimney from S n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Pochůzkář
Up the wall from the rails along the left edge (K) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Cvrček
By the right upper edge to the ledge. Traverse to the center of the wall and n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Cvrček
By oblique crack in the upper wall to the edge and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Cvrček
From the ledge of the original route along the right edge upwards n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Cvrček
Directly under the rappel n. v. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Rejžáček
To the left of the chimney in the valley wall by crack to K and directly by the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
6-
Lodní bok
Valley crack over 2 K and from the left n. t. (At the 2nd K, under the overhang, there is… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Rejžáček
By Chimney Route for about 2 m, along the ledge to the right, diagonally to the ledge… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Rejžáček
In the valley wall to the right of "Chimney Route" directly over K and the overhang into… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Rejžáček
By narrow chimney in the valley wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Rejžáček
By the northern edge from the tourist sign to the 1st K, from the right over the overhang… Rock Climbing
6-
Vodnice
Through the center of the overhanging upper wall to the notch and traversing right n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Rejžáček
From the upper (N) edge traverse along the ledges to the right past the SW edge and by… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Vodnice
In the right part of the upper wall (opposite the tree) over the overhang, to the left… Rock Climbing

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