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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Zahradní kámen (Steingarten)
Downstream chimney from E n. v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Zahradní kámen (Steingarten)
In the left part M skip n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Zahradní kámen (Steingarten)
From the upland side right into the S wall and gully n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Medard
Along the SW edge up to the cave and from there n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Poustevníkův kámen
Crack in the W wall to K and straight on n. v.
Přeskok
Poustevníkův kámen
Jump from the east n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Věž u Obraznice
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Poustevníkův kámen
Briefly through the chimney and wall to K. Along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Věž u Obraznice
Along the NE edge to the ledge and to the 1st K. North wall to the 2nd K, straight on n.… Rock Climbing
4
Věž u Obraznice
Chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Zahradní kámen (Steingarten)
In the right part of the massif, jump to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Poustevníkův kámen
Left part of the downhill wall over 2 K n. v.
1
Poustevníkův kámen
Uphill wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Věž u prolezovaček
Hollow in the left part of the NW wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Věž nad Kačinou
Along the left downhill edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Věž nad Kačinou
Left part of the SW wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Věž nad Kačinou
Crack in the SW wall to the ledge and to the left n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Věž nad Kačinou
Left part of the uphill wall along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Věž nad Kačinou
Right part of the uphill wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Věž u prolezovaček
SE wall traverse right to the E edge and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Havraní skála
Rib near the chimney to the clocks, left by the small falcon over K to the platform and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Havraní skála
Left edge of the south face along the small falcon to K, diagonally right to the platform… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Havraní skála
Along the left southwest edge over the block to the hole (clocks in it) and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Havraní skála
Center of the south face of the backdrop, over K to the top of the backdrop and the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Havraní skála
Corner in the west wall n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Havraní skála
Wall to the right of the SW edge over K to the shelf and slightly to the right n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Havraní skála
Chimney to the left of the backdrop to the platform. Rock Climbing
6
Havraní skála
In the left part of the downhill (S) wall (left of the Cikani route) wall through a hole … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pinka
Along the left edge of the north pillar and directly over the tip n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Havraní skála
In the right part of the south face, over the plates to the platform and along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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