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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Střelecká věž
By a groove in the N wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Studánecká věž
From the E by chimney to the 1st K. Into the small cave and over the 2nd K up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Studánecká věž
Up the overhanging downhill wall to the 1st K, further over the 2nd and 3rd K to the end… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Studánecká věž
From the chimney traverse the S wall to K of the original route and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Studánecká věž
From the massif by a fall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Studánecká věž
Up the overgrown south wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Věž u vyhlídek
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Věž u vyhlídek
Descend from the south massif, step over and to the right to the pulpit in the uphill… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Cizinecká věž
By a short SW wall to a small balcony and over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Cizinecká věž
From the ravine S of the tower traverse to the small balcony and through the center of… Rock Climbing
4
Cizinecká věž
In the left part of the uphill wall to the ledge, traverse to the right and along the… Rock Climbing
1
Cizinecká věž
Chimney from the uphill side to the fore-rock and by a fall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Věž u vyhlídek
From the southern massif descent, skip to the tower ledge and over the tip n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Věž u vyhlídek
By crack in the left part of the downstream wall to the oblique notch and it to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Věž u vyhlídek
In the right part of the downstream wall over 2 K to the ledge, left into the crack and… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Věž u vyhlídek
In the massif at the NE edge by a groove and to the right by a crack to the balcony, jump… Rock Climbing
6-
Věž u vyhlídek
In the narrow N wall by crack to K, further by crack to the balcony and by wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Věž u vyhlídek
Chimney at the downstream edge to the ledge and n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Medard
Downstream wall to 1st K, diagonally left up to 2nd K and straight n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Medard
From the ledge in the downstream wall by deepening diagonally to the left across K n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Medardova kapka
Through the middle of the upland wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Medardova kapka
From the boulder overhang to the E edge and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Medardova kapka
Left part of the S wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Medard
From the valley by crack to the fore rock, left to K of the Medard's chapel route and… Rock Climbing
6-
Medardova kapka
Along the edge straight to the 1st K of the "Medarda" route and that way n. v.
7
Zahradní kámen (Steingarten)
Wide crack from the west n. v. Rock Climbing Spare Route
6
Medard
Along the S edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Medard
Chimney between M and tower n. v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Medard
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Medard
From the block overhang and edge or gully n. v. Rock Climbing

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