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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Kleopatra
Jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Kleopatra
From the 2nd bolt of the original route into a notch and slightly left n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Kleopatra
From the west, through a crack between M and the tower into a chimney and up it n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Stěna u Kleopatry
By the left part of the wall to the hand jam and with it to the 1st K. Upwards over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna u Kleopatry
By the crack to the right of the beech tree n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Stěna u Kleopatry
Start with Buková crack, then left behind the edge and along the ledge over the 1st K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna u Kleopatry
Through the center of the wall over 2 K to the gully and n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna u Kleopatry
By the wall directly to the 1st K and the original route to the summit Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Sousední stěna
Along the right edge over K to the pillar, then by the wall n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Sousední stěna
By the crack to the left of "Sousedská cesta" n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Sousední stěna
Along the west edge over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Sousední stěna
Along the left edge to the pillar and then by the wall n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Sousední stěna
By the crack from SE to the balcony (clock), then straight on n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Sousední stěna
By the wall to the left of the crack to the balcony. Rock Climbing
2
Sousední stěna
Chimney between M and the tower n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Sousední stěna
Right part of the SE wall diagonally left to the gully and n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Sousední stěna
By the wall to the left of the chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Bludička
Small crack from the SE to a small balcony, up to the notch and over the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Bludička
In the right part of the upper wall along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Bludička
Crack in the west wall on the ledge, left into the chimney and n. v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Bludička
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Bludička
In the notch of the east face of the adjacent tower, traverse to the edge and with a jump… Rock Climbing
2
Bludička
Chimney between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Střelecká věž
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Střelecká věž
Up the western edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Střelecká věž
Up the overhanging uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Střelecká věž
Up the downhill wall traverse to the right to the S edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Střelecká věž
Up the eastern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Studánecká věž
From the SW edge traverse chimney to the left to the start of the crack and up it to the… Rock Climbing
7
Studánecká věž
In the downhill wall, up the rib and to the right to the end, step to the right onto the… Rock Climbing

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