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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Kovářská stěna
Left of the route "Kovářova kobyla" (The Blacksmith's Mare) via a crack past 2 bolts n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kovářská stěna
From the inner area from the South via a chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
2
Kovářská stěna
Via a chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Kovářská stěna
From the V chimney between M and the adjacent block upwards onto a sloping ledge, then… Rock Climbing
6
Kovářská stěna
Left of the descending chimney, up the sloping wall past 3 bolts and a rappel bolt n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Kovářská stěna
From the North via a chimney to the end (bolt), overhang and sloping wall n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kovářská stěna
To the right of the "Východní spára" (Eastern Crack), up the wall over 5 bolts (K) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kovářská stěna
To the left of the "Východní spára" (Eastern Crack), up the wall over 4 bolts (K) and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kovářská stěna
Up the crack at the right edge of the wall to the balcony and up the smooth wall n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Kovářská stěna
Up the small wall briefly into the crack and along it over the bolt (K) n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Kovářská stěna
Through the left part of the northeast face over 2 bolts (K) and to the right n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kovářská stěna
To the left of the "Na kovárně" (At the Smithy) route, along the rounded edge over 3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kovářská stěna
To the left of the "Čtrnáctka" (Fourteenth) route, up the wall over 3 bolts (K) directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kovářská stěna
To the left of the "Hřbitovní kvítí" (Cemetery Flower) route, up the wall over 3 bolts (K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kovářská stěna
Along the downward-sloping crack to the wedged boulder, with small cracks to the bolt (K)… Rock Climbing
6
Pytlák
In the upper wall to the right behind the south edge, upwards to the balcony to the bolt … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Kovářská věž
From the pre-rock, traverse into the wall under the abseil and directly up n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Kovářská věž
Up the south edge directly n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Pytlák
Along the eastern edge over 2 bolts (K) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Pytlák
Through the right part of the south face over 2 bolts (K) n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Kovářská věž
Up the south edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Pytlák
From the upper side over a boulder and up the small wall directly to the bolt (K). … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kovářská věž
Up the wall to the left to the balcony in the northeast edge, over the overhang and along… Rock Climbing
6
Hrobník
From the north in the southeast wall to a pillar, with a crack across an indistinct… Rock Climbing
6-
Hrobník
Along the right lower edge upwards and left to a bolt (K), directly into the crack and n.… Rock Climbing
1
Hrobník
On the left side of the west face of the Z-block, n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Hrobník
Up the wall to the right of the "Bojkot" route directly over the bolt (K) n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Hrobník
Through the center of the lower wall directly to the 1st bolt (K). Diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Hrobník
On the right in the lower wall to a small corner, along it to a ledge, (K) right into the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Hrobník
From the massif, a jump n. v. Rock Climbing

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