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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
Roklice a Loubenský potok 1272 routes Kokořín Valley 1140 routes Planý důl 904 routes Rač 839 routes Obrok 818 routes Mšeno 611 routes Beškov 317 routes Blatečky 313 routes Vlhošť a Stříbrný vrch 305 routes Doksy 302 routes Vidim 279 routes Česká Lípa 265 routes Blíževedly 220 routes Dražejov and Nedvězí 205 routes Chudolazy 199 routes Želízy and Tupadly 195 routes Osinalice 189 routes Dolní Zimoř 172 routes Vlkov 164 routes Tubož 162 routes Úštěk 139 routes Šemanovice 139 routes Moon Valley 128 routes Popelov 127 routes Nové Osinalice 127 routes Hradčanské stěny 102 routes Zakšín 99 routes Houska 81 routes Skalská tabule 78 routes Nový Berštejn 33 routes
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3
Mechová
Below the abseil point to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Mechová
Along the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Mechová
Through the middle of the downhill wall to the 1st ring, left to the edge, over the 2nd… Rock Climbing
4
Mechová
Straight up the center of the west face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kniha
Up the right uphill crack to a ledge and from there to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kniha
From the right uphill crack, traverse right to a balcony and rightwards upwards to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Kniha
Up the narrow S face, past 3 K (pitons/bolts) to a large ledge, from there via the 4th K… Rock Climbing
7
Kniha
Up the right downhill edge into a notch and left to a K (piton/bolt). Diagonally left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kniha
Left side of the uphill face, via a K (piton/bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Kniha
Up the left uphill crack to a ledge and from there to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Kniha
Up the diagonal crack from the valley to the K (piton/bolt) of the "Compulsory Reading"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kniha
In the south face, traverse left along a ledge towards the downhill edge to a K (piton… Rock Climbing
7
Kniha
Up the left downhill edge, past 2 K (pitons/bolts) to the balcony, up the face to a large… Rock Climbing
7
Kniha
Up the face to the right of the Right Uphill Chimney route, via 2 K (pitons/bolts) to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Kniha
Up the center of the downhill face to the 1st and 2nd K (pitons/bolts), up over the… Rock Climbing
3
Kukulička
From the boulder in the gorge, directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Složitá
Crack in the SE wall to the pillar and standing n. v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Kukulička
Via the western route to the "Complex" ledge and from there a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Kukulička
Chimney between the tower and "Složitá" to K, overhang and wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Složitá
In the S edge, right to the balcony and edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Kukulička
Rightwards on the uphill face following the ramp to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Kukulička
By a small chimney under the overhang to 1st K, left overhanging crack under another… Rock Climbing
4
Složitá
Crack in the NE wall to the pillar and without standing n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Složitá
From the boulder between "Kukulíčka" and the tower, upwards to the left into the notch… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Složitá
Start in the SE crack, then left to the little chimney and through it to K. Wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Složitá
From the valley, edge over K to the shelf and NW edge n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Složitá
To the right of the "Valley Route", wall over K to the sloping ledge, crack n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Složitá
Western crack to the terrace. From there, rib and wall directly to the "summit book" n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Složitá
Wall directly below the abseil n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Složitá
From the wedged boulder between "Kukulíčka" and the tower over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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