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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Sokolí věž horní
By the chimney from SW to the gully, right across the holes to the bolt and directly up… Rock Climbing
3
Buková
By the northern wall to the ledge, diagonally right to the balcony and to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Sokolí věž horní
From the SW onto the massif and a jump to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Sokolí věž horní
By the prominent corner in the southern massif to the summit, a jump to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Sokolí věž horní
By the wide chimney to the 2nd bolt, from there a traverse and up the wall past the 3rd… Rock Climbing
6-
Sokolí věž horní
By the northern edge past 4 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sokolí věž horní
Through the center of the downhill wall past 4 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Sokolí věž horní
Up the right downhill wall to the ledge to the 1st bolt. Up to the 2nd bolt and directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sokolí věž horní
By the downhill edge past 3 bolts, left into the gully and to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Sokolí věž horní
From Sokolí věž (Falcon Tower) by a low jump to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Sokolí věž horní
From the southern massif to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Sokolí věž horní
By the inner southern chimney to the ledge in M, traverse to the southern edge of the… Rock Climbing
7
Sokolí věž dolní
In the chimney between the "Falcon Towers", from the downhill edge upwards and right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Sokolí věž dolní
On the right side of the downhill wall to the 1st bolt, then left and up to the 2nd bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8
Sokolí věž dolní
Through the center of the downhill wall past 3 bolts, and directly over the overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Sokolí věž dolní
Through the left part of the downhill wall past 4 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Sokolí věž dolní
From the wedged boulder directly below the abseil point to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Sokolí věž dolní
From the upper Falcon Tower, jump over the 2nd ring of the Wide Chimney and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Sokolí věž dolní
By the chimney between the M and V wall and then through the center of the wall past 3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zarostlá
Left of the southwest edge, up the small face and corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Zarostlá
Up the southwest edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Zarostlá
Up the cracks in the left part of the south face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Zarostlá
In the right part of the east face, straight into the crack of the "Manévry" route and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mechová
Via the west face to a ledge, to the 2nd ring of the "Omšelé cesty" route and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Mechová
From the ledge up the center of the east face to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Zarostlá
Over the overhanging downhill edge and face, over the overhang to a ring. Up the face to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zarostlá
Over the overhanging east face to a ledge with a ring, traverse right to the crack and up… Rock Climbing
6
Zarostlá
From the SE edge diagonally right into the overgrown gully and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Zarostlá
Through the center of the west face, over the overhang to the ledge. Traverse left to the… Rock Climbing
6
Zarostlá
In the right part of the south face, over a small dihedral to the summit. Rock Climbing

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