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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Složitá
Small crack in the middle of the valley wall to the sloping ledge, along it under another… Rock Climbing
3
Složitá
Chimney in the valley wall to the terrace and easily n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Složitá
From the block, wall to the shelf (clock) and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Zelený had
In the right part of the valley wall, chimney to the foreland, overhang to the edge and… Rock Climbing
4
Složitá
SW wall to the little chimney and diagonally left n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Zelený had
Crack in the middle of the valley wall to 1st K, recess over 2nd and 3rd K, and abseil K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Zelený had
In the left part of the valley wall along the crack into the chimney to 1st K. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Zelený had
Through the center of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Zelený had
Right part of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Vyhlídková
By crack in the right part of the E wall upwards and right to the balcony to the Key… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vyhlídková
By gully in the W wall across a Key Overhang to the end, then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Vyhlídková
By crack in the W wall to the ledge and the NW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Vyhlídková
Up the right part of the E wall across the Key Overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Vyhlídková
By gully in the left part of the W wall to the balcony to the Key Overhang and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vyhlídková
By indentation in the center of the W wall to the end, left to the Key Overhang and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Vyhlídková
By indentation in the center of the W wall to the end, right to the ledge and the NW edge… Rock Climbing
4
Vyhlídková
Through the center of the E wall (left of the chimney) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Vyhlídková
Along the rounded NW edge across a Key Overhang directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Vyhlídková
Up the east chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Vyhlídková
Up the left part of the top wall to the balcony and the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Ostrožní
In the right part of the East face over an overhang to the 1st bolt, right over the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Ostrožní
Up the middle of the East face upwards, right to the pulpit and n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Ostrožní
Left of the Normal Route via a crack to a ledge and n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Ostrožní
Up the right part of the uphill face over a small overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Ostrožní
Up the north face into a crack, up it to the end and n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Panák
Via the chimney between the tower and M to the 1st bolt, up the edge past the 2nd and 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Panák
Up the right part of the uphill face n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Panák
Up the middle of the East face via 2 bolts and a rappel bolt n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Panák
Up the left part of the uphill face n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Panák
Up the left part of the East face into a crack, up it to a ledge, along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing

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