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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Jarouš
Up the left part of the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Jarouš
Up the North wall to K, from there directly over the overhang into the gully and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Jarouš
Along the right upper (SE) edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Jarouš
Along the left upper edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Jarouš
Chimney between the tower and the foreland to the small crack, traverse left to K and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Jarouš
In the left part of the valley (NE) wall to the edge near K and from there directly to… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Jarouš
From the edge, traverse the southeast wall to the 1st K. Slightly from the right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Mysliveček
From the boulder near the upper wall, diagonally right to the edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Danger
3
Mysliveček
From the boulder near the upper (NE) wall, through the hole, or traverse left behind the… Rock Climbing Danger
3
Myslivcová
From the SE to the ledge and diagonally left over the hourglass n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Myslivcová
From the SE to the ledge, along it left into the valley wall and up n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Myslivcová
From K of the "Halali" route directly along the small falcon to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Myslivcová
From the gully through the center of the SW wall, across a notch to K. Then up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Myslivcová
Along the upper edge under the rappel point, over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Myslivcová
Traverse right along the ledge in the NW wall to the edge near K. Up to the shelf and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Myslivcová
From the SE onto the ledge, right across the overhang to K, then right into the crack and… Rock Climbing
3
Stěna proti jaroušovi
Up a crack from the north n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Stěna proti jaroušovi
Chicken wing to the right onto the west edge to the 1st bolt. Up to the 2nd bolt, left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Stěna proti jaroušovi
From the foreground, a fall into the north face, up a crack to a terrace and n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Nedělní stěna
In the right part of the west wall, over 2 bolts into a notch, right onto the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna proti jaroušovi
Up a crack from the east onto a pillar, left to the bolt and straight up n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Stěna proti jaroušovi
Up a crack in the SE wall below the summit and left n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Nedělní stěna
Up a broken crack in the NW wall to a balcony and easily n. t. Rock Climbing
7
Nedělní stěna
In the SE wall along a subtle edge over the 1st and 2nd bolts to a shelf and up the… Rock Climbing
6-
Kleopatra
By the narrow SE wall to the 1st K and directly to the 2nd K. Along the edge to the notch… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kleopatra
NW face over 3 bolts n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kleopatra
To the right of the SE edge, by the crack into the chimney and by it n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Stěna u Kleopatry
By the chimney n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Kleopatra
In the western massif, through a shallow depression to a sloping wall, traverse into a… Rock Climbing
7
Kleopatra
Through a crack in the valley wall into a hole, slightly left and right to 1st bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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