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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
Přeskok
Turistická věž
Jump from the foreland of the Maiden Tower to the ledge and via the Normal Route to the… Rock Climbing
5
Turistická věž
Through the crack in the E wall to the balcony and via the Normal Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Turistická věž
From the NE edge traverse left to the balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Turistická věž
In the left part of the overhanging wall over 2 ring bolts into the gully, through it to… Rock Climbing
3
Turistická věž
Directly through the east face to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Turista
By the edge of the neighboring massif to its top and via the "Upper Way" to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Turistická věž
Through the middle of the SW wall of the small tower between "Maiden" and Tower over a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Turistická věž
Through the right or left chimney to the small tower between the Maiden and the Tower.… Rock Climbing
9
Turistická věž
Through the middle of the overhanging wall over 3 ring bolts directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Turista
From the overhanging side through the chimney, later right into the wall and through it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Turista
South edge over 2 ring bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Turista
Through the crack in the middle of the E wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Turista
Around the upper edge Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Široká věž
In the right part of the W wall to the ledge, over the bulge to the balcony and to the… Rock Climbing
4
Široká věž
S wall over ledges to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Turista
Through the middle of the overhanging wall over 2 ring bolts and an hourglass to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Turista
Right part of the east wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Široká věž
Through the gully in the middle of the W (upper) wall to the balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Úzká věžička
Little Falcons in the NW wall to the end to a ring bolt. From there to the right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Buková
Up the right downhill wall to the crack (bolt), up it to the ledge and by the Old Route… Rock Climbing
7
Buková
In the left part of the downhill wall, by the overhanging crack to the balcony and over… Rock Climbing
7
Široká věž
Left part of the overhanging wall over 3 ring bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Úzká věžička
NW wall upwards to a ledge, traverse left across the overhanging wall to the E edge and… Rock Climbing
5
Široká věž
N edge under the overhang, from the left over it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Široká věž
Left part of the W wall to the balcony, from it to the ledge and through the small wall… Rock Climbing
6
Buková
Through the center of the northern wall past the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Buková
From the balcony in the southern wall, traverse right to the downhill wall to the bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sokolí věž horní
Start from the "Normal Route" chimney and up the double crack past the bolt to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Buková
From the balcony near the downhill edge, left past the edge and diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Sokolí věž horní
To the right of the "Normal Route" chimney, by the notch to the bolt. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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