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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Snadná
From the fore-rocks, an overhang and left to K. Rock Climbing
6-
Snadná
From the south fore-rocks, up a small chimney and a wall to K. 1 m to the left and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Snadná
Up a crack in the left part of the East face to the South fore-rocks. Rock Climbing
7
Snadná
From the fore-rocks traverse left to the base of the East Route, up to the 'clocks' and… Rock Climbing
7
Ptačí zoubek
Up the NE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Ptačí zoubek
Up the upper wall to the right to an edge (clock) and along it n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Ptačí zoubek
Through the center of the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Ptačí zoubek
From the upper side, left onto a sloping ledge in the West face, briefly up, traverse… Rock Climbing
4
Snadná
From the fore-rocks traverse into the North face and up it n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Drahomíra
Northeast face (watch) to K, from the right onto the ridge and along it n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Drahomíra
Through the chimney to the ledge and pitch n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Dvojčata
To the right of the "Valley Route" up the wall over K to the pre-summit and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Dvojčata
From the foreland, traverse to the NW edge, up the wall to the left to K and straight up… Rock Climbing
5
Drahomíra
In the left part of the southwest face, briefly onto the ridge and along it n. v.… Rock Climbing
2
Dvojčata
To the left of the "Normal Route" up the edge to the pre-summit and n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Dvojčata
S edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Pes
Right part of the valley edge over the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Pes
Dihedral crack to the foreland and n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Pes
Through the center of the left part of the S face, the foreland over the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Pes
Through the center of the valley wall over 3 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pes
In the right part of the S face, the foreland over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Pes
Right part of the East face n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Pes
To the right of the S edge, up the wall over the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Věž u jehličky
North, edge directly n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Věž u jehličky
To the left of "Old Route" wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Jehlička
Through the center of the West face via K n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Věž u jehličky
Wall under the rappel directly n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Věž u jehličky
In the East face diagonally left to the SE edge and n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Míšova věž
Upper edge directly n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Jehlička
South edge directly n. v. Rock Climbing

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