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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
První věžička
Left of the north edge into the gully and onto the balcony. Rock Climbing
4
První věžička
Through the center of the SE wall onto the balcony. Rock Climbing
3
První věžička
On the left part of the upper wall onto the balcony. Rock Climbing
6
První věžička
Along the edge into the gully under the beak, diagonally along a crack in the west wall… Rock Climbing
2
První věžička
On the eastern wall, left of the NE edge, onto the balcony and from there. Rock Climbing
6
První věžička
Left of the SW edge, upwards into the gully in the edge. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
První věžička
Chimney easily to the next small tower, hop to the balcony. Rock Climbing
4
Špekáček
Along the southern edge onto the ledge and over two steps. Rock Climbing
6
Adventní věž
Directly across the valley-side wall over 2 K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Adventní věž
With a valley-side overhanging recess to a small balcony, then along a crack to the left,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Špekáček
Through the center of the valley-side wall over 2 K.
6
Špekáček
Along the overhanging northeast wall to K and right. Rock Climbing
7
Špekáček
Across the west wall over 2 K. Rock Climbing
4
Adventní věž
Directly into the recess on the west wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Špekáček
Through the center of the southeast wall onto a sloping shelf and traverse left to the… Rock Climbing
7
Špekáček
Through the center of the east wall over K. Rock Climbing
2
Adventní věž
Along the upper edge onto the shelf and into the recess on the left. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Faraon
Along the SE edge to the 1st bolt and stance in the notch (hourglass). To the right over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Faraon
Along the SW wall to the 1st bolt of the original route. Rock Climbing
6-
Faraon
Along the right upper edge over 3 bolts n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Faraon
By the rib in the S wall to the 1st bolt and up to the 2nd bolt. Stance in the notch … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Faraon
Through the center of the upper wall over the bolt straight into the notch and from there… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Faraon
From the 1st (added) bolt of the Old Route over 2 more bolts to the horizontal notch,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Anthroporrhaistos
By jumping from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Anthroporrhaistos
Up the upper chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Tjenemit
Up the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Tjenemit
Along the southeast edge to a ledge in the valley-side face and up that n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Snadná
Up the left part of the East face over K to the South fore-rocks and via the South Route… Rock Climbing
5
Snadná
From the fore-rocks to the right part of the North face to a small chimney and up it n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Snadná
Up the NE edge to a notch ('clocks') and over an overhang to K. Through the 'clocks' into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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