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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7-/7
Věž u Nedvězí
North face via 2 Keys (K) to the ledge. Along the downward edge to the top. Note: VK… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Věž u Nedvězí
Left part of the SE wall to the "Staré cesty" (Old Routes) ledge and to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Věž u Nedvězí
From the upper side along the ledge to the left and along the edge via 2 Keys (K) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Věž u Nedvězí
From the platform straight across the Key (K) to the top. Rock Climbing
8
Věž u Nedvězí
Up the wall to the left of "Pálavská cesta" (Pálava Route) via 3 Keys (K) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Věž u Nedvězí
Through the middle of the SE wall to the 2nd ledge, traverse right, 2 m upwards and… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6
Věž u Nedvězí
To the left of the Tatranská stěna (Tatra Wall) route straight to the Key (K), (K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Makovička
From the west, directly through the overhang into the small falcon area and to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Makovička
In the SW wall through the hole into the gully and n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Makovička
In the right part of the S wall over the ledge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Makovička
In the right part of the E wall under the abseil into the crack and it n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Makovička
In the right part of the North face (clocks) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Věž u Nedvězí
Up the upper wall to the platform, left behind the edge and straight to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věž u Nedvězí
Through the middle of the upper wall over the overhang to the platform, right and via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Věž u Nedvězí
From the platform via a corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Zelená věž
Right part of the plateau (S) wall to the balcony and the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Aprílová
From the plateau side to the small balcony on the S edge, traverse along the ledge to the… Rock Climbing
3
Aprílová
Right along the S edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Aprílová
From the small balcony by standing n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Lednová
Through the center of the NE wall of the pillar to the balcony and n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Lednová
Right part of the E wall along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Náckova věž
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Náckova věž
Left part of the W face to the 1st K. Left behind the edge to a balcony in the valley… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Náckova věž
Through the chimney from the valley side n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Náckova věž
Through the upper chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Náckova věž
By a crack to the ledge, then over the overhang to K. Straight up the face n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Náckova věž
To the right of the Valley Chimney, through the chimney to a block and further n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Rosnička
Through the center of the upper face under the overhang, slightly to the left and n. v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Rosnička
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Rosnička
From E, on the ledge traverse to the N edge and follow it n. v. Rock Climbing

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