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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Vlčí zub
Wall under the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Artur
Wall below the rappel point n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Vlčí zub
Rounded edge in the center of the plateau wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Jehla u Slůněte
Along the south edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Jehla u Slůněte
Left valley edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Vlčí zub
In the left part of the plateau wall step over from the boulder to the left and along the… Rock Climbing
4
Jehla u Slůněte
Left part of the plateau wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Vlčí zub
Right plateau edge n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Jehla u Slůněte
Center, initially slightly overhanging, valley wall (loops) directly n. v.
2
Jehla u Slůněte
Along the right plateau edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Kančí terč
Plateau edge and from the left n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Stolice rádců
From the plateau side traverse right into the north wall to K and a gully n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Stolice rádců
Right plateau edge n. v. Rock Climbing Danger
5
Kančí terč
Along the right plateau edge n. v.
4
Stolice rádců
From the slope along the rounded left plateau edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Kančí terč
Chimney crack between the tower and the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Kančí terč
Left valley edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Kančí terč
Jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Tlustá Berta
SE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Teddy
To the right of the left downhill edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Stolice rádců
Center of the plateau wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Tlustá Berta
In the right part of the east wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Malá věž u Nedvězí
Left part of the North face to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Malá věž u Nedvězí
Downhill (West) wall to the cave to the 1st Key (K), then right to the recess to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Malá věž u Nedvězí
Left part of the South face into the recess and to the Key (K), right to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Malá věž u Nedvězí
Up the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Teddy
Right upper edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Malá věž u Nedvězí
Through the middle of the North face via the Key (K) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Malá věž u Nedvězí
Right part of the North face to the clocks, then via the Key (K) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Věž u Nedvězí
Via a narrow south-facing overhanging wall to a sloping ledge to the Key (K). Up a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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