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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Židovská stěna
Through the central corner over the small overhang and traverse left to the edge. Up to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Židovská stěna
Up the wall above the overhang diagonally left up to the gully and up it, not protected. Rock Climbing
6-
Karmel
Up the west wall over 2 fixed points, not protected. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7
Karmel
Directly to the hourglass feature via the overhanging edge. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Židovská stěna
In the right part of the wall to the diagonal crack and up it, not protected. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Karmel
Through the crack in the west wall, not protected. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +2
5
Židovská stěna
From the gully up the pillar diagonally left to the spike and right over the bolt hanger,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4
Židovská stěna
Through the corner recess in the right part of the wall, not protected. Rock Climbing
2
Karmel
Through the east chimney, not protected. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall +1
5
Ararat
To the left of "Antediluvian Chimney" up the wall (bolt hanger), not protected. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Karmel
Through the center of the east pillar over the hourglass feature and the fixed point, not… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Karmel
Through the crack in the center of the valley wall, not protected (summit book). Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Ararat
Through the center of the left valley wall over the fixed point, not protected. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Ararat
Through the chimney in the center of the south face, not protected. Rock Climbing
5
Karmel
Up the right part of the valley wall to the fixed point, then along the edge, not… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Karmel
Up the left part of the valley wall towards the hourglass feature on the edge, over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Karmel
Through the recess in the east wall, not protected. Rock Climbing
6
Ararat
Straight up the wall over the fixed point "Rainbow Road", not protected. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Ararat
From the base of the rock diagonally right to the fixed point, then left, not protected. Rock Climbing
7
Ararat
To the left of the corner straight over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Ararat
Corner to the balcony (book) and straight n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Ararat
Near the edge to the left of the chimney n. t. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
1
Ararat
Chimney in the right part of the SE face n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Ararat
Through the center of the left half of the SE wall, slightly to the left along the gully,… Rock Climbing Danger
2
Ararat
Up the sloping slab to the edge, along the footbridge left to the balcony and right n. t. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Stěna nad chatrčí
Crack in the right part of the wall (loops) n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
4
Stěna nad chatrčí
Chimney in the center of the wall deep inside M and under the overhanging block n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Stěna nad chatrčí
In the left part of the wall, overhanging corner crack to K and chimney n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Aktivista
Southern chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Aktivista
From the upper chimney creeping along the ledge in the north face and from the west n. v. Rock Climbing

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