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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Traper
On the north wall opposite "Traperská vyhlídka" through an oblique crack n. t. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
2
Traper
Crack from the west n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5
Traper
Through an overhanging corner to the balcony and chimney n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang
4
Traper
Through a brittle crack n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Traper
Through the center of the north wall across K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Traper
Through the center of the main (S) wall across K into the recess, through the points into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Traper
Directly from the hole n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Sion
Briefly up the chimney in the left part of the west face to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Sion
Up the middle of the west face to the slab and through the recess to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Sion
To the right of "Světélková cesta", directly up the wall across K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sion
On the left side of the west wall, directly to the balcony to K and rightwards with a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Sion
Up the wall near the SE edge to the point and leftwards through the recess to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Sion
From the left to K "Světélková cesta" and straight on n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Sion
From the large hourglass feature, traverse the west face to the southern edge and a pull… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Sion
Up the right part of the west face along the small cracks to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Sion
Along the SW edge, higher up diagonally right to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Choreb
Up the west face diagonally upwards to K and a pull-up move from the right to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7
Choreb
Up the right part of the pillar around the "nose" (BH) to the small balcony. "Abraham's… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
6
Choreb
Up the east face of the pillar to the small balcony, over the edge via K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7
Choreb
Up the crack in the middle of the pillar via K to the end and a pull-up move to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Sion
Up the right part of the V wall via K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Sion
Up the corner from the east, higher up through the double crack to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Sion
Up the left part of the V wall along the crack, higher up leftwards through a recess to… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
7
Sion
Up the wall near the SE edge straight through K into the recess of the route "K to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Sion
Up the middle of the east face via K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
2
Choreb
Up the wall to the ledge and along the bottom of the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
7
Choreb
Up the third, overhanging crack at the top, via K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Choreb
Up the fourth, slightly overhanging at the top, crack (slings) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Choreb
Through the corner to the left of the overhang, higher up to the right over a brittle… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
7
Choreb
Up the wall past the purple spots to the (K). Leftwards up to the ledge and through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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