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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Starosvětská věž
4 m left of "Středověké cesty" (Medieval Route), overhang into the wall, then up to the… Rock Climbing
6
Starosvětská věž
Up the NW edge (belayed via K of the route "Morová rána") n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Starosvětská věž
On the left edge of the uphill wall, left into the corner in the SE edge to K and follow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Starosvětská věž
A prominent corner in the middle of the north face n. v. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Starosvětská věž
Through the middle of the right half of the northern wall to K, upwards into the hole and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Starosvětská věž
Via the route "Křížová výprava" to K, right behind the edge, chimney and mantel n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Starosvětská věž
From the balcony to the left of the corner route "Corner Route" via a small wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Starosvětská věž
On the left in the downhill wall, a slab over the overhang. To the right via a crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Starosvětská věž
Through the middle of the uphill (S) wall along the notch n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Racochejlí stěny
Overhanging wall to the balcony (clock), over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Racochejlí stěny
Via the prominent corner with brittle holds n. t. Rock Climbing
5
Racochejlí stěny
Lieback/Chimney climb over the BH to the ledge and up the wall n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Racochejlí stěny
Through the western chimney to the birch tree and right along the edge n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Racochejlí stěny
Left of the corner, upwards to K, diagonally left to the tip on the edge and n. t. … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Racochejlí stěny
To the right of the corner, up the wall to the third hole and right to K, right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Racochejlí stěny
Via the diagonal crack n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Racochejlí stěny
Via the left crack n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Racochejlí stěny
Through the crack over the hole to K, left under the chimney and then follow it n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Racochejlí stěny
Through the crack from the right to the balcony and over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Racochejlí stěny
From the left, through the hole to K, right over the plates n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Racochejlí stěny
At the SE edge, up the wall to K, right along the edge to the clocks in the cornice and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Traperská vyhlídka
Through the right part of the upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Traperská vyhlídka
Through the SE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Traperská vyhlídka
Through the center of the east wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Traperská vyhlídka
Through the center of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Traperská vyhlídka
Through an overhanging crack in the lower wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Traperská vyhlídka
Through the NE edge to the clocks, diagonally to the right to other clocks, to the left n… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Traperská vyhlídka
Through the NE edge across K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Traperská vyhlídka
Along the crack in the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Traper
NW edge n. t. Rock Climbing

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