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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Choreb
Up the second, overhanging crack at the top, via K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Choreb
Up the corner past the old pitons (or natural pro) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Choreb
Up the fifth crack over the bulge to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4
Choreb
To the left of the original route, through a crack under the overhang, diagonally right… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6-
Choreb
Large overhang with good holds straight to the anchor (K), from the right above the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
6
Choreb
Overhanging wall to the anchor (K), right across the overhang to the rappel ring and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Choreb
Wall opposite "Jew's Tower" upwards and right to the big 'clock' in the roof, left across… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Choreb
Wall opposite "Sálus Edge" over the anchor (K) to the 'clock' and over the overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Choreb
Up the wall along the crack under the narrow chimney and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
7-/7
Choreb
Up the wall to the left of the rappel point (K) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Choreb
Wall opposite "Jew's Tower" in line with the pine tree over several 'watches' (BH - Bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
3
Židova věž
Via the upland edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Židova věž
Down the wall over the anchor (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Židova věž
NW edge to the slab ('clock') and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Židova věž
Center of the north wall and higher up the rounded edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Židova věž
Down sharp edge to the anchor (K) in the overhang and straight to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Židova věž
Descent from the massif and step over to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Židova věž
From the north, jump over from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Židova věž
Jump down from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Choreb
Along the left edge of the passage to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Židova věž
From SE, overhanging wall, higher up slightly right, along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Židovská stěna
In the left part of the NW wall, using iron-rich holds to the anchor (K). Traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Židovská stěna
In the left part of the wall, slightly overhanging wall over 2 anchors (K) to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
2
Židovská stěna
Corner in the NW wall, higher up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Židova věž
Chimney between M and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Židovská stěna
Right part of the NW wall to the last ledge to the 'clock' (a piton shaped like a clock),… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Židova věž
From the start of the route "Jew's Chimney", along the edge of M to a detached block,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9
Židovská stěna
Overhanging wall and from the right across the roof directly to the ring of the "Sea… Rock Climbing Overhang
4
Židovská stěna
Up the articulated wall over 2 alcoves and a slab to the summit gully (bolt hanger) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Židovská stěna
Under the roof-like overhang briefly to the ledge, traverse right and pull up over the… Rock Climbing

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