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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Aktivista
Jump down from the rock face from the south n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Aktivista
From the upper chimney left to the SE edge, shortly to the juniper and n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Blatnice
From the right part of the upper wall onto the ledge, traverse 3 m to the right and n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Blatnice
Center of the west face (loops) n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Blatnice
Right part of the west face, over the clock n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Aktivista
Upper chimney to the ledge, traverse left and n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Blatnice
Left part of the east face, through the recess n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Aktivista
Upper chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Aktivista
Descend from the eastern massif, step over the chimney and n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Blatnice
From the rock face with a jump to the exit of the "Upper Route" and n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Blatnice
Through the middle of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Blatnice
Left upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Blatnice
By the right part of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Berkova skála
To the right of "The Way to the Saddle" by the overhanging wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Berkova skála
By the route "Need from the East" onto the terrace and by the crack to the left of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Berkova skála
From the upper side onto the terrace in the East wall and by the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Berkova skála
In the western wall to the left of the route "Hello Hourglasses" along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Berkova skála
In the middle of the northern downhill wall, by the overhanging corner crack over 2 bolts… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Berkova skála
Through the recess in the downhill wall into the inner chimney and up it slightly to the… Rock Climbing
2
Věž na pasece
From the boulder on the upper side by the left edge n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Berkova skála
Jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Berkova skála
By chimney (squeeze) n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Berkova skála
By the edge to the left of "The Way to the Saddle" n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Berkova skála
In the right part of the upper wall by the recess n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Berkova skála
By the left upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Berkova skála
In the western wall, by the chimney to the top of the backdrop (also from the upper side)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Věž na pasece
Downhill wall over K n. v.
3
Věž na pasece
From the block by a short wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Artur
Narrow downhill edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Artur
Upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing

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