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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Litoměřická věž
Through the chimney in the upland (J) wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Litoměřická věž
To the right of the "Dance Break" route, over 2 K to the 3rd K of the "Dance Break" route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Plazivá
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Litoměřická věž
From K traverse left to the edge and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Plazivá
Along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Plazivá
(Climbing) from a boulder in the middle of the downstream (S) wall to a trough and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Plazivá
In the right part of the N wall over K to the plate, to the right into the gully and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Plazivá
Start to the left of the S wall, from the edge directly to the ledge and along the edge n… Rock Climbing
5
Plazivá
To the left of "Old Route" to the balcony in M, fall into the E wall and directly n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Plazivá
To the right of the W edge to the ledge, along the edge or wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Plazivá
Through the middle of the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Litoměřický roh
From the east, through the chimney into the inner space and the left crack n. t. (secured… Rock Climbing
5
Litoměřický roh
Via the route “Left Corner” into the inner space. Over the block to the left to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Litoměřický roh
In the left part of the upland wall along the rib, wall to the right n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Litoměřický roh
In the upland wall from the block to the gully, to the right to the balcony, wall to K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Litoměřický roh
In the right part of the SE wall, overhanging small falcon and higher to the left to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Litoměřický roh
Start as for the route “Right Corner” and onto the wedged block. Step over to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Litoměřický roh
From NE along the edge of the pillar to the right to the 1st K on the top of the block.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Litoměřický roh
From K directly over the hourglasses n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Litoměřický roh
From NE over the overhang into the chimney and through it into the inner space. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Lesní stráž
Left into the chimney along the edge to K. Up into the hole, traverse left into the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Lesní stráž
In the middle of the valley wall from the ledge below the wall. Wall and small falcon to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Lesní stráž
In the left part of the N wall, wall and higher chimney and then freely n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Lesní stráž
Crack to the left of the chimney onto a large ledge and further crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Litoměřický roh
In the northern wall from the slope from the bivouac, overhanging crack across the grassy… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Lesní stráž
From the small cave, falcon to a step to K and wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Litoměřický roh
Through the middle of the valley wall, a fissure under the overhang to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Lesní stráž
In the narrow E wall on the left corner of the valley wall diagonally to the left and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Lesní stráž
In the right part of the valley wall, from the ledge below the wall, over flakes and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Lesní stráž
In the left part of the upland wall at the edge n. v. Rock Climbing

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