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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Strážce květnice
Along the right uphill edge and over the small balcony, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Oblázek
To the right of "Uphill Road", through the center of the wall over the overhang, n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Strážce květnice
Between M and the tower, n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Oblázek
To the left of "Birch Tree Route", through the chimney, n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Strážce květnice
Through the crack in the uphill wall, n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Oblázek
In the downhill wall, along the ramp to the right to K. Along the edge to the notch,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Oblázek
Through the center of the V-shaped wall, using the crack, from its end, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Oblázek
Through the right downhill chimney onto the block, then through the center of the wall, n… Rock Climbing
7
Krajková stěna
In the north face by the hand crack to the hole, right to K and by the crack n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Oblázek
Near the right uphill edge, over the small pillar, n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Krajková stěna
By the ramp in the north face. Rock Climbing
1
Oblázek
From the uphill side, through the chimney to the right, n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Oblázek
Through the left chimney, n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Krajková stěna
From the ramp in the north face diagonally to the left to the fissure and along it n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Krajková stěna
To the left of the "Corner" route to the ledge, by the crack n. t. Rock Climbing
6
Krajková stěna
Start to the right of the bivouac. By the face along the crack to the hole, overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Krajková stěna
In the left part of the S face, by the roof-shaped overhang, then by the small crack and… Rock Climbing
6
Krajková stěna
By the face to the right of the "Old Problem" route to K. By the face to the K of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Krajková stěna
From the overgrown platform in the valley face by the overhanging face to K. Briefly left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Krajková stěna
Through the center of the S face over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Krajková stěna
By the crack to the left of the pillar n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Krajková stěna
By the face and crack n. t. Rock Climbing
2
Krajková stěna
By the crack through the center of the S face n. t. Rock Climbing
4
Družička
By edge to the left of "Pajdavá cesta" n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Družička
By jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Družička
Through the center of the E wall, n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Družička
From the platform to the W wall, left under the overhang, over it to the right to K. To… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Družička
In the left part of the E wall, through the broken crack, n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Družička
Between M and the tower, n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Družička
Start in the lowest part of the valley pillar directly over the overhang under the second… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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