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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
6
Andělská pevnost
Completely in the left part of the wall, over 2 bolts, top out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Andělská pevnost
In the left part of the wall to the 1st bolt into the hole, and directly over the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kníže pekel
In the right part of the wall, via a blunt, short edge, over the bolt, top out. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Kníže pekel
Via a wide, broken crack, top out. Rock Climbing
7
Strážce Švábů
From the left lower edge diagonally left into the SE face over a ring, climb it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Andělská pevnost
In the right part of the massif (behind the passage) climb the wall under the overhang,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Strážce Švábů
By the edge, go up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Strážce Švábů
From the massif, go up. Rock Climbing
6
Andělská pevnost
In the right part of the massif climb the wall over the 1st ring into the big hole, to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Strážce Švábů
By the gap between the massif and the tower, go up. Rock Climbing
6
Strážce Švábů
From the upper side near the west edge over a ring, go up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Strážce Švábů
By a crack in the middle of the lower wall to a ledge and left to another crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Strážce Švábů
By the left upper edge and the left part of the south face, go up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Popelářská věž
From a boulder in the west face, go up. Rock Climbing
5
Popelářská věž
At the left uphill edge into the hole (clock), up the edge upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Popelářská věž
From the right edge of the terrace below the west wall, climb the corner. Rock Climbing
5
Popelářská věž
Between the routes "Crack" and "Upper Route", climb the face. Rock Climbing
2
Popelářská věž
By a crack in the right part of the upper wall, go up. Rock Climbing
5
Popelářská věž
From the SE edge along the left crack to the shelf, briefly traverse right to the anchors… Rock Climbing
4
Popelářská věž
NW edge, go up. Rock Climbing
3
Popelářská věž
Up the center of the uphill wall upwards. Rock Climbing
2
Popelářská věž
Through the traverse from the left part of the uphill wall into the overhanging wall. Up… Rock Climbing
5
Popelářská věž
In the left part of the uphill wall from the traverse of the route "Mouse Hole" up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pavlovická věž
Up the wall to the right of "Old Route" upwards. Rock Climbing
7
Pavlovická věž
Approximately in the center of the overhanging wall to the 1st bolt. Up the wall over … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Pavlovická věž
Up the right overhanging edge to the ledge to K, traverse left to the center of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Pavlovická věž
Via "Overhanging Route" to the bolt, stepping right over the overhang, up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Pavlovická věž
Up the NW edge to the right of "Hasty Route" upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Pavlovická věž
From the hole up the wall directly upwards. Rock Climbing
3
Pavlovická věž
Up the uphill wall into the hole, traverse into the overhanging wall and upwards. Rock Climbing

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