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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
9
Skautská skála
On the left into the chimney in the right part of the wall, via a faint crack and above… Rock Climbing Overhang
7
Skautská skála
Along the western edge (bolt) and to the right along the gully, then up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Skautská skála
In the right part of the south wall, up the wall past a bolt to the ledge. To the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Rumiště
Up the wall to the wide crack and up it to the balcony to the rappel bolt and then up. Rock Climbing
5
Vinný sklep
Through the narrow chimney in the middle of the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Skautská skála
In the right part of the NW wall, up the crack and widening chimney over a wedged boulder. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7
Rumiště
Up the crack in the left part of the massif over a bolt to the balcony to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vinný sklep
10m to the left of the route "Easter Route", up the crack (slings) and the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Samhain
Through the right part of the southwest wall, past 2 bolts, then up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Skautská skála
Along the edge in the left part of the valley wall, past a bolt straight to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
4
Samhain
From the west, through the chimney to the ledge (hourglass), overhang, right onto the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
10
Skautská skála
Overhanging edge and on the left, a receding overhanging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Overhang
9
Skautská skála
Corner to the right of "Sharks DON'T BITE" Rock Climbing Overhang
1
Samhain
From the north, jump from the massif, then up. Rock Climbing
2
Samhain
From the plateau side, through the chimney between the massif and the tower, then up. Rock Climbing
8
Samhain
In the middle of the valley wall, along the crack past 2 bolts, then up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Rudý bůh
In the left part of the valley wall, through the corner over a bolt to the chimney and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Roháček
In the right part, up the wall over 1st fixed point into a crack (2nd fixed point), up it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Rudý bůh
Through the chimney between the massif and the tower, then up. Rock Climbing
7
Roháček
Through the center of the wall over a fixed point into a crack (hourglass) and up it n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Rudý bůh
Descend from the massif and jump across, then up. Rock Climbing
7
Roháček
In the right part of the north wall over 2 fixed points onto a shelf, diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Rudý bůh
Through the center of the north wall, past 2 bolts and a rappel bolt, then up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Rudý bůh
In the west wall, traverse left under the crack and follow it past the 2nd bolt, then up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Roháček
On the left side of the wall, from the edge to the oblique shelf on the right, to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Král duchů
Through the chimney from the west between the massif and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
?
Král duchů
From the eastern massif, a short descent and jump n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Král duchů
In the right part of the W wall over a fixed point n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Král duchů
Left part of the S wall over a fixed point n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Roháček
Through the crack briefly onto a block and through a chimney n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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