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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
Roklice a Loubenský potok 1272 routes Kokořín Valley 1140 routes Planý důl 904 routes Rač 839 routes Obrok 818 routes Mšeno 611 routes Beškov 317 routes Blatečky 313 routes Vlhošť a Stříbrný vrch 305 routes Doksy 302 routes Vidim 279 routes Česká Lípa 265 routes Blíževedly 220 routes Dražejov and Nedvězí 205 routes Chudolazy 199 routes Želízy and Tupadly 195 routes Osinalice 189 routes Dolní Zimoř 172 routes Vlkov 164 routes Tubož 162 routes Úštěk 139 routes Šemanovice 139 routes Moon Valley 128 routes Popelov 127 routes Nové Osinalice 127 routes Hradčanské stěny 102 routes Zakšín 99 routes Houska 81 routes Skalská tabule 78 routes Nový Berštejn 33 routes
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6-
Bábovka (Lesní hrad)
On the left in the western wall, over the overhang to 1st K, then through the corner to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Bábovka (Lesní hrad)
From the southern edge to the right into the crack and up it n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Bábovka (Lesní hrad)
Middle of the SE wall over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Bábovka (Lesní hrad)
Eastern edge to the balcony to K and over the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Bábovka (Lesní hrad)
Start on the left (E) edge to the ledge, right to the crack, up it and right to K, from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Bábovka (Lesní hrad)
In the right part of the NE wall, over the overhang to K and from there over the bulge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Bábovka (Lesní hrad)
To the left of the crack in "Stará cesta" (Old Road), over the overhang through the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Bábovka (Lesní hrad)
To the left of the southern edge, over the smooth wall into the gully and along its edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Dromedár
South wall over round bulges n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Bábovka (Lesní hrad)
Left edge in the upper wall 3 m upwards, then a long traverse left into a crack widening… Rock Climbing
2
Dromedár
From the west, inclined crack and edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Dromedár
Inclined southern edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Dromedár
Crack under overhang and chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Dromedár
To the right of the northern edge, oblique crack n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Dromedár
Wall and crack n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Dromedár
On the right on the NE side, between the pillar and the tower upwards and edge n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Dromedár
Southern crack to the balcony and n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Červ
From the upper edge, traverse left into the wall, using a chimney and the lower edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Lipský kužel
From the NE corner to the platform and edge n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Červ
Lower (W) edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Červ
Upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Lipský kužel
Via the edge to a ledge and n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Lipský kužel
Descending corner to the platform and edge n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Dromedár
From NE through chimney and wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Lipský kužel
In the center of the SE wall, over a rappelling bolt n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Lipský kužel
Northern slab n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Harmonia
From the massif, down a chimney crack to the upper edge, wall to a small balcony and n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Harmonia
From the west, via a chimney to the upper gully and via "Old Path" n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Harmonia
Descending SE corner into the gully and via "Old Path" n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Rumiště
In the right part of the massif, through a narrow chimney, then up. Rock Climbing

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