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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Sněženka
Chimney along the right uphill edge. Rock Climbing
4
Karlova koruna
Left in the downhill face, over a crumbly overhang and up the iron spikes. Rock Climbing
4
Sněženka
At the left uphill edge to the ledge, up the edge. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Větrný mlýn
From the 3rd piton diagonally right to below the roof-shaped overhang to the 4th piton… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Větrný mlýn
From under the wedged block, right to the crack (loops) and up it. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Větrný mlýn
In the upland face diagonally left to the edge and along it, n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Větrný mlýn
From the massif descend to the wedged block (or jump) and from it via "Old Road", n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Větrný mlýn
From the upland side, chimneying onto the wedged block and up the wall (pitons), n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Větrný mlýn
Far left on the north face, over an overhang into a gully and up it. Rock Climbing
3
Větrný mlýn
Through the crack between M and the wedged block to its top and up the wall, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Větrný mlýn
Through the overhanging gap between the tower and the wedged block to its top and further… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Větrný mlýn
Up the valley (NW) face over 2 pitons to the small chimney, up it to the end and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Hlivna
Up the middle of the north face, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Kocábova věž
Along the edge, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Hlivna
Up the NE edge, n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Prázdninový masiv
Left of the western edge onto a small ledge and along it right behind the edge onto a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Hlivna
Up the NW rounded edge, n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Hlivna
Up the left part of the valley face over several pitons into the gully and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Prázdninový masiv
Through the corner (rock window on the right) under the overhang, left and through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hlivna
In the valley face over the bulge, slightly left to the central summit gully (pitons) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hlivna
Up the middle of the east face, n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Kocábova věž
Up the SE wall to the south edge, through the corner to the right of the edge directly to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Kocábova věž
Up the left smooth part of the NW wall on small edges to the holes and slightly right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kocábova věž
Up the left crack in the NW wall to the large pine tree, then diagonally right over the… Rock Climbing
3
Kocábova věž
From the "Old Road" ledge slightly left and over the overhang, n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Kocábova věž
4 m left of "Old Road" up the wall to the overgrown ledge and through the notch, n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Kocábova věž
Along the crack at the right edge of the southwest wall, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kocábova věž
Start in the fall line of the right recess in the SW wall. Up the wall to the horizontal… Rock Climbing
6
Kocábova věž
In the middle of the NW wall through the notch to K. Sokolík and over the overhang into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Kocábova věž
Right of the E edge along the ledge to the pine tree and up the overgrown wall, n. v. Rock Climbing

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