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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Bublina
Up the south wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Protiva
By the edge (chimney at the bottom) n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Divoká
In the plateau chimney from the right to the left plateau edge (loop) and along it n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Zákeřná
Through the east wall directly through the hole n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Svobodná
From the terrace in the NW wall over the overhang and through the cracks (loops) n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Svobodná
Up the plateau wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Zákeřná
From the center of the S wall diagonally right to the shelf to K, right to the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Bezelstná
From the plateau side, chimney into the recess and through it n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Zákeřná
Chimney between M and the SW edge to the clock, left beyond the edge to the shelf (clock)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Zákeřná
At the left edge of the S wall to the ledge and directly below the rappel n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Méněcenná věž
From the massif, jump to the center of the tower. Rock Climbing
7
Zneuctěná
Start in the left part of the South face. Diagonally right to the large threads, from… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Obecní věž
Up the right part of the north face to the crack (K), up the crack to the ledge (numerous… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Zneuctěná
Right of "Normal Route" with delicate hand jams along the edge to the threads and by… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Obecní věž
On the left edge of the SE face to the threads and diagonally left. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Obecní věž
Up the center of the uphill face. Rock Climbing
2
Méněcenná věž
Between M and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Obecní věž
Up the center of the SE face over several threads. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Jednohubka
Up the north face via K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
1
Zneuctěná
Up the west face. Rock Climbing
3
Jednohubka
Start like "Old Route" and traverse right to the large spike. Pull up. Rock Climbing
3
Jednohubka
From the S chimney to the terrace and over the boulder. Rock Climbing
3
Jednohubka
Up the uphill face to the gully. Rock Climbing
2
Hubička
Up the uphill arête. Rock Climbing
2
Hubička
From the uphill chimney in the ledge, traverse left and along the edge to the pre-summit.… Rock Climbing
3
Hubička
From the S chimney to the terrace and over the boulder. Rock Climbing
4
Hubička
Up the SE face via K to the balcony (loop) and up the edge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
1
Karlova koruna
Up the uphill edge. Rock Climbing
1
Sněženka
From the massif. Rock Climbing
7
Karlova koruna
Up the downhill edge directly over the overhang. Rock Climbing

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