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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
7
Špek
On the right side of the S face, rightwards to a ledge to a bolt (K), along the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Halamova věž
Up the chimney between M and the tower, n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Halamova věž
Fall from the massif into the right part of the upper face and from the right, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Špek
Jump from the massif, n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Špek
On the right side of the S face, right of the iron pyrites, n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Špek
Along the right upper edge, n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Špek
In the north face, left of the iron pyrites, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Sloní past
From SE onto the sloping ledge, right behind the edge to the terrace in the valley wall… Rock Climbing
1
Sloní past
From the south side by jumping n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Sloní past
From S by a crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Sloní past
From the W massif descent, overhang and wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Mamutice
From the boulder at the upper wall, traverse to the slab and from the right n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Mamutice
From the terrace in the N wall to the corner and higher up the crack (hourglass) n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Sloní past
In the left part of the S wall briefly n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Strážce Klášterky
Down the chimney in the massif, traverse to the right, overhang and n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Strážce Klášterky
From the center of the upper wall slightly to the right n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Strážce Klášterky
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Věž u koní
By jumping from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Věž u koní
Through a wide chimney between the massif and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Věž u koní
Upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Lenochod
Through the chimney between M and the tower to the ledge and n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Protiva
Through the chimney between M and the west wall n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Lenochod
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Lenochod
To the right behind the valley edge through the recess over K to the edge and along it n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Protiva
From the W massif n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Protiva
By the SW edge or to the left of it to a prominent pillar, over it to K and up the wall n… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Divoká
By jump n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Protiva
Through the chimney between the NE massif and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Protiva
From the massif from the NE n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Bublina
Up the plateau wall n. v. Rock Climbing

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